 |
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 03:34 PM
|
|
Switch 480 ballast to 220
Hello,
Need to know what I have to do to change a 480 ballast in an outside parking lot light over to a 220 ballast?
|
|
 |
Electrical & Lighting Expert
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 05:43 PM
|
|
If it's a multi-tap ballast there will be a lead for 240v and 208v. What is your voltage, and please don't say "220". There is no such thing.
I assume this is commercial, it will either be 240v(230v) or 208v.
Are you an electrician? Are you qualified and insured to do electrical work in a commercial setting?
|
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 05:47 PM
|
|
Without knowing what type of light it is it is hard to give a good answer. Most likely you will need a ballast, starter, bulb and possibly socket and photocell. Really, if you are going to that bother, just change the whole fixture. At least then ALL the components are new. A ballast can be the major part of the unit cost unless the fixture is physically really big or fancy.
Edit: Stanfortyman is correct. I forgot about multi-tap ballasts. All the ones I work on are 120 volt and nothing above 250 watt.
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 06:31 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by EPMiller
Without knowing what type of light it is it is hard to give a good answer. Most likely you will need a ballast, starter, bulb and possibly socket and photocell. Really, if you are going to that bother, just change the whole fixture. At least then ALL the components are new. A ballast can be the major part of the unit cost unless the fixture is physically really big or fancy.
Edit: Stanfortyman is correct. I forgot about multi-tap ballasts. All the ones I work on are 120 volt and nothing above 250 watt.
The light in question is a shoe box style parking lot light on a 28' pole. Yes I would believe I would have to change to a 240 not 220 as I indicated before. So there may be a chance that I may have a multi-tap ballast in the light? How much would I be looking at dollar wise to change these over?
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 06:32 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by nick1367
The light in question is a shoe box style parking lot light on a 28' pole. Yes I would believe I would have to change to a 240 not 220 as I indicated before. So there may be a chance that I may have a multi-tap ballast in the light? How much would I be looking at dollar wise to change these over?
Sorry I wanted to add the lights in question are mercury vapor if that means anything.
|
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 06:42 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by nick1367
The light in question is a shoe box style parking lot light on a 28' pole.<snip>
Is it a HPS? Metal halide? Multi (mercury) vapor? What is the wattage? The parts are not interchangeable for the different types of bulbs. Even different wattages require different ballasts. And different ballasts for the same bulb can require different external parts. Some ballasts have optional capacitors, which you should use. The original fixture may not have provision to mount things other than exactly what was in it originally. Without knowing the light type and where you are, pricing will be difficult. You will have to go to a real electrical supply house to get these kind of parts. If you don't know exactly what you are doing you could get yourself into a heap of trouble.
Edit: after posting this I saw your post about the mercury vapor type. Are you certain about that? Metal halide looks almost the same. I am not familiar with mercury vapor shoebox fixtures, but I am with metal halide.
EPM
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 06:51 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by EPMiller
Is it a HPS? metal halide? multi (mercury) vapor? What is the wattage? The parts are not interchangeable for the different types of bulbs. Even different wattages require different ballasts. And different ballasts for the same bulb can require different external parts. Some ballasts have optional capacitors, which you should use. The original fixture may not have provision to mount things other than exactly what was in it originally. Without knowing the light type and where you are, pricing will be difficult. You will have to go to a real electrical supply house to get these kind of parts. If you don't know exactly what you are doing you could get yourself into a heap of trouble.
Edit: after posting this I saw your post about the mercury vapor type. Are you certain about that? Metal halide looks almost the same. I am not familiar with mercury vapor shoebox fixtures, but I am with metal halide.
EPM
I bought these without enough research, not knowing there were 480 light systems. Anyway I look at it it will cost me some cash to possibly change them over to 240. May have to try to sell them and start over.
|
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 06:56 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by nick1367
I bought these without enough research, not knowing there were 480 light systems. Anyway I look at it it will cost me some cash to possibly change them over to 240. May have to try to sell them and start over.
Before you spend more money, go check if they have multi-tap ballasts. If they are new, (something I did not know before now) you should be able to read lettering and labels on the ballast and wiring. Otherwise, look them up on the manufacturers website. Once you get the unit specs or see a ballast schematic, you will be able to figure it out easily.
EPM
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Mar 17, 2009, 07:38 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by EPMiller
Before you spend more money, go check if they have multi-tap ballasts. If they are new, (something I did not know before now) you should be able to read lettering and labels on the ballast and wiring. Otherwise, look them up on the manufacturers website. Once you get the unit specs or see a ballast schematic, you will be able to figure it out easily.
EPM
Thanks a bunch EP I'll have to look into them closer.
|
|
 |
Electrical & Lighting Expert
|
|
Mar 18, 2009, 04:31 AM
|
|
Like I said, IF they are multi-tap there will be a separate lead for each voltage. The ones that are not used are simply capped off.
If all you have is a "com" and "480v" leads then they are not multi-tap tap.
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Mar 18, 2009, 07:03 AM
|
|
 Originally Posted by stanfortyman
Like I said, IF they are multi-tap there will be a separate lead for each voltage. The ones that are not used are simply capped off.
If all you have is a "com" and "480v" leads then they are not multi-tap tap.
Thanks for that info Stanfortyman, you and EP have been a great help and I'll keep my fingers crossed when I head up to the shop and check them out. Thanks again!
|
|
Question Tools |
Search this Question |
|
|
Add your answer here.
Check out some similar questions!
Ballast
[ 7 Answers ]
What is the test procedure for a ballast. I would like to know how wired up in light and a bench test. Thank you in advance for any help. :eek:
Ballast Hum
[ 3 Answers ]
We recently added new office space in the basement of our home. I bought three fluorescent fixtures 48" with 4 T-8 32 watt bulbs in each one. These were Home Depot's "Best" quality with electronic ballasts and were supposed to be "noise free." Well, the first thing I noticed when they were...
New ballast bad?
[ 3 Answers ]
I just installed a 4 bulb light fixture in the grage (110V) using a 4 bulb ballast. The problem I'm having is one bulb doesn't come on. I've changed bulbs and still the samething. I'm thinking it probably the ballast. Any ideas? Omar
Ballast question
[ 3 Answers ]
Hello,
I have a ballast that works on 240 volt normal single phase house power. My question is will it work in a warehouse that is 240 volt power. The supply is 600 volt 60 amp. My understanding is this is 3 phase power.
How does that work?
Also what is the difference between single...
View more questions
Search
|