[thooper56]

Light above kitchen sink stopped working a few days ago. Tried a new bulb, that didn't help. Checked the breaker; it was not tripped, but I cycled off and on it anyway. That didn't help.

Loosened fixture and put neon tester on wires. It showed no power. Took switch plate cover off and put neon tester on terminals of switch where the wires attach. It just barely glowed. (Right next to it was the switch for the garbage disposal. I touched the terminals on it and the neon tester glowed brightly).

I did not take the wires off the switch to test them alone, so could it be the switch itself? Or is it more likely that the wiring itself bad and I need a professional?

[ballengerb1]

Where exactly did you touch your test leads on the switch? Is there an exposed ground or neutral in the switch box for you to also test?

[thooper56]

Where exactly did you touch your test leads on the switch? Is there an exposed ground or neutral in the switch box for you to also test?

I touched the two screws on the side where the two black wires attach. I do not see a ground or neutral on that switch.

[thooper56]

Where exactly did you touch your test leads on the switch? Is there an exposed ground or neutral in the switch box for you to also test?

Here's a better answer for you and an annotated picture...

There is a bundle of bare copper wire in the back of the box. I touched the neon tester from the top screw of the "bad" switch to the bare copper and got a bright glow. I touched the bottom screw of the "bad" switch to the bare copper and got no glow.

I did this with the switch in the "off" position. I just attempted to try it with the switch in the "on" position and the light came on! There was a lot of electrical crackling noise coming from the switch. I guess that's a clear indication that the switch needs to be replaced...

Any advise you may have to offer at this point would be still be appreciated! Thanks for providing your service!

[thooper56]

Where exactly did you touch your test leads on the switch? Is there an exposed ground or neutral in the switch box for you to also test?

Second try for the picture...

[ballengerb1]

You can't test for power across those 2 screws, they are both hot when the swicth is thrown, you need a neutral or ground to make a circuit with the black/hot. The xeposed copper wire is likely a ground, maybe a neutral with the wire nut off, test from the exposed copper to both sides of the switch with the switch on. This should produce a fully lighted test lamp, and yes replace the switch.

[thooper56]

You can't test for power across those 2 screws, they are both hot when the swicth is thrown, you need a neutral or ground to make a circuit with the black/hot. The xeposed copper wire is likely a ground, maybe a neutral with the wire nut off, test from the exposed copper to both sides of the switch with the switch on. This should produce a fully lighted test lamp, and yes replace the switch.

I guess I thought when I tested across the two screws on the bad switch that I was, in effect, bypassing the switch. Thanks for straightening me out on that point!

I've since been to the hardware store and bought another switch and installed it. I now have light over the sink. Whoo hoo.

One more question: The new switch has a green screw (presumably for ground) on it. The old switch did not have a ground connection. Should I try to straighten out those bare copper wires and attach one? Or leave well enough alone? I should add that I'm pretty sure the bare copper is ground because there is white in there with a wire nut and there is a bare copper ground up at the light fixture.

Thanks again for your help!

[ballengerb1]

You can add a short strip (pig) of bare wire from the green screw to the bundle of bare wires, but put a large thumb nut on the bundle. Green wire is also used for ground and is a tad safer than running more bare around in the box.