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johnneedshelp · Mar 1, 2009, 12:14 AM

I recently installed a shower stall in my basement. I purchased a shower faucet and installed it. I have a tiny leak on the cold water side and it is driving me nuts. I reefed on the fitting to get it from leaking even worse earlier in the day.
I wanted to purchase a shower faucet where you could sweat coper pipes but could not find one. The guy at Menards said that the suppliers are moving away from making them, which is a load of BS... but anyway...
He also said that they are not difficult to make leak free but I am finding that not to be true.
My question is what the heck can I do to get it to stop leaking? I can not possibly make it tighter. I am using a cast copper 90 degree elbow that turns into a pex 1/2 fitting.

Milo Dolezal · Mar 1, 2009, 01:12 AM

John, shower valves with sweat connections can be purchased in supply house that caters to professionals. Big Box stores tend to carry shower valves with IP connectors. We hate to install them in copper system because you have to convert them first - than solder. We usually use 1/2" x 2" brass nipple. We screw the nipple into the valve first. Than we screw on the other end 1/2" Female cast brass Drop 90. This 90 has Female thread on one end and sweat fitting on the other end.

From my experience, these cast brass 90s are hard to screw in. They seem to be not tapered. Yes, they produce leak quite often from threaded end. Also, you cannot grab them too well since you may damage them. Moreover, they sometimes crack.

You probably have to take it apart and do it all over again. I would not suggest to try to patch it with JB Weld or similar products.

johnneedshelp · Mar 1, 2009, 07:32 AM

Thanks Milo
You know I checked it this a.m. and it seems that it might be OK. To the touch it feels cool and a bit damp but that could be because it is on the cold side of things.
If I do need to redo it, you mentioned a brass nipple instead of a copper nipple, would a copper one work as well? I bought copper intending to set it up the way you mentioned, then, on a second visit to Menards, the guy at the store said that that cast copper (maybe it is brass) would be easier.

johnneedshelp · Mar 4, 2009, 05:37 PM

I ended up redoing the whole thing. But at least now it does not leak, I did it the way you suggested.

ballengerb1 · Mar 4, 2009, 09:14 PM

Menards is usually great on price but I'm not sold on their advice. I asked one of their guys for an angled stop cock and he just blinked at me. I later showed it to him and said," I have never heard it called that before" See where this is going? I said how long you been working here. His reply, priceless,"two weeks , I got layed off at my other job." LOL In any case, Milo gave you some good advice and at least one of us is always here.

Milo Dolezal · Mar 4, 2009, 09:28 PM

Originally Posted by johnneedshelp

I ended up redoing the whole thing. But at least now it does not leak, I did it the way you suggested.

John, you 've selected the proper approach of dealing with the leak. Now you can sleep better... and feel some degree of accomplishment as well !

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 4, 2009, 09:42 PM

Just a thought, most tub/shower fuacets that have male threads can also receive 1/2 inch copper on the inside of connection. This gives you the option of either using a female adapter, or just cleaning and fluxing the inside portion of valve supply and sweating in copper. Not sure what brand you have,but for future reference, this is sometimes an option.

Overall, just glad you got the leak fixed.

Oops, sorry, I see now that you must have female threads on faucet, making it impossible to sweat to vavle.