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    ltyler4412's Avatar
    ltyler4412 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 4, 2009, 06:29 PM
    Replacing J bend
    I have two masters degrees but I can't seem to understand how to replace a simple j bend under bathroom sink. The old metal pipe has a large hole in it, and basically just fell off when I began to loosen the nuts. I tried replacing the metal with a plastic j bend from Walmart. I don' think there is anything wrong with the replacement, it fits OK. But I put in the washers, tighten the nuts and nothing happens. It just fall off. Besides, I don't seem to understand even the intended process. If I tighten the nuts on the j-bend without it being attached, I don't seen anything happening. How does tightening the nuts cause the j-bend to attach to the pipes? I don't understand what is supposed to happen. This has been a 25 year mystery. I tried replacing a similar joint back in 1983. After working all day, taking 15 trips to the hardward store, I finally gave up and called a plumber. He reached under the sink with only one hand and attached the new j-bend within 5 seconds. It gave me no trouble as long as I owned the house--22 years. What is it that I just don't see? Thanks for your help.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #2

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:06 PM

    What part falls off. Is it the u shape piece that connects to the pop up assembly(at bottom of sink?) You will need to use the 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 compression ring instead of the straight 1 1/2 ring. Put nut on p.o. assembly, then put ring on with the thin side down. Tighten onto trap.
    Make sure you are using the plastic compression rings instead of the rubber rings. Let me know what you find. Im sure one of the pros here will set you up with a picture of how to install the plastic tubular trap.

    Would be nice to know if the existing trap was 1 1/4 or 1 1/2.
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #3

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:15 PM

    Loosely put the J bend together to make the Trap or J look. Now there will be two Plastic nuts left. Take the one nut and slide it up on the pipe coming down from the sink and hold with one hand and slide the round thin like washer up that same pipe. ( note the plastic ring has a bevel on it. That bevel should be facing down toward the J part now slide the J part to the sink pipe and join with nut and the plastic ring 'ferrule" and lightly tighten it to hold J bend. The longer end of the J goes into the pipe in wall On that end put the other nut and then the ferrule and now the pipe into the wall pipe. Slid the nut and ferrule forward and tighten the nut onto wall drain pipe. Adjust angles and tighten nuts. The P trap slid off the sink drain because of the ferrule not being right with the angle. Note there are two sizes in the plastic rings 4 rings total One I.D. fits 1 1/4 O.D. pipe and the other fits 1 1/2 pipes Use the small O.D. for bathroom sink

    Signed 21 boat

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    ltyler4412's Avatar
    ltyler4412 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:23 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77 View Post
    what part falls off. Is it the u shape piece that connects to the pop up assembly(at bottom of sink?) You will need to use the 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 compression ring instead of the straight 1 1/2 ring. Put nut on p.o. assembly, then put ring on with the thin side down. Tighten onto trap.
    Make sure you are using the plastic compression rings instead of the rubber rings. let me know what you find. Im sure one of the pros here will set you up with a picture of how to install the plastic tubular trap.

    would be nice to know if the existing trap was 1 1/4 or 1 1/2.
    Thanks. I am using the "1 1/4 "compression rings" so far as I can tell. I failed previously to note that of the 4 rings included 2 are 1 1/4 and 2 are 1 1/2. That fits more tightly onto the pipes. But tightening the nut does not seem to me to tightening anything and the j-bend falls off. Besides, the rings are pushed down into the j-bend. There is something obvious that I am missing. How does one "tighten onto trap?"
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #5

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:37 PM

    Are you saying there are two smaller rings, and two larger rings? Is there a ring that has the same outside diameter with a smaller inside diameter? The ring should not push completely into trap.

    Plastic tubular traps connect by means of compression. Correct sized rings, and correct directional install of rings is very important.
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #6

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:39 PM

    Some of the plastic traps eliminated the plastic fuerlls to put togther the two U shape part of the trap the one end of the U has a molded flare on it. The nut tightens that together. What the ferule does on the sink pipe is compress the sink pipe to seal on that and the nut slides over that from above and pushes that into the new J trap top. Your trap shod have an slightly enlarged top that slides over the sink drain that starts the way. The part of the J bend pipe is straight and into wall, Note all four rings has the same outside dia. It's the inside Dia that's different










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    ltyler4412's Avatar
    ltyler4412 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:48 PM

    OK, I have discovered at least part of the problem. The pipe coming out of the wall is so corroded that the lip onto which I have been trying to force the 1 1/4" ring actually curls up. I can not get the ring onto the pipe, and if I could there is only about a 1/8" lip to put the ring on. Thus, the problem moves to replacing the pipe coming out of the wall. Will it just screw out?
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #8

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:52 PM

    The new ring does not go over the old pipe in the wall It goes over the new plastic pipe and the new pip goe into the old pipe and the plastic ring wedges into the inside of the olad pipe

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    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #9

    Jan 4, 2009, 07:55 PM

    All you can do is try. Most likely the pipe will break off in the wall. You will most likely have to cut into the wall and replace pipe, using adapter clamps(ferncos) Can you post a pic our your current setup?
    ltyler4412's Avatar
    ltyler4412 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jan 4, 2009, 08:07 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    some of the plastic traps eliminated the plastic fuerlls to put togther the two U shape part of the trap the one end of the U has a molded flare on it. the nut tightens that together. What the ferule does on the sink pipe is compress the sink pipe to seal on that and the nut slides over that from above and pushes that into the new J trap top. Your trap shod have an slightly enlarged top that slides over the sink drain that starts off the way. The part of the J bend pipe is straight and into wall, Note all four rings has the same outside dia. Its the inside Dia thats different

    Signed 21 Boat

    If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate MY Answer
    I have discovered that (as I should have observed all along) and as I just posted, have problem with corroded pipe. But to make sure that I understand, the j-bend basically attaches on the pipe from the wall, and the longer end going over the straight pipe from the sink simply slides on. Is that right? Actually, I think I have it now about the j-bend. Now my problem is this: I have to replace the pipe going to the drain, but it is so soft that when I try to screw it out, it threatens to collapse. Is that normal? Should it screw out, and if so, does it screw the same way most threads do? Thanks again.
    ltyler4412's Avatar
    ltyler4412 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jan 4, 2009, 08:32 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77 View Post
    All you can do is try. most likely the pipe will break off in the wall. You will most likely have to cut into the wall and replace pipe, using adapter clamps(ferncos) Can you post a pic our your current setup?
    I took a picture, but it shows more clearly that I can see how corroded the pipes are. I'm giving up and calling a plumber. I'm way out of my league here. Thanks, everybody who tried to help. I understand how to simply replace the j-bend.
    ltyler4412's Avatar
    ltyler4412 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Jan 4, 2009, 08:37 PM
    I am trying to rate uboat and mygirlsdad but apparently I don't understand this site either.:confused:
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #13

    Jan 4, 2009, 08:40 PM

    It sounds like you are backwards maybe. The short end that's flared goes over the sink pipe coming down from he sink. The long pipe pf J goes into the house wall. The new nut with plastic slides down the long end of the J bend . The pipe out of wall should be threaded and that where new nut screws onto with plastic Ferrell wedging into inside of old Wall pipe
    Now If I understand correct here you are saying the old pipe off sink is bad. The "Tail Piece" that's goes into sink drain itself?
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #14

    Jan 4, 2009, 08:41 PM

    Rating on this sight is a little confusing, even for the pros that have been here for years. Just glad you liked our answers. Please let us know how things work out. Really interested to know the result. Good luck and take care.

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