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    FarmerK's Avatar
    FarmerK Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Dec 17, 2008, 05:06 PM
    Heating unit induced draft blower motor
    I have a heating unit with an Induced draft blower motor that wants to start when the unit calls for heat, but it just hums for about 30 seconds and then the unit shuts down. What should I check out?
    Frank Almaguer's Avatar
    Frank Almaguer Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #2

    Dec 17, 2008, 05:15 PM
    I'm not sure if this type of motor use a capacitor but if they do, check it out to see if it is good. Also the small blower wheel may be stuck take a look and see if you can spin it by hand. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF.
    You will need a continuity tester to check the capacitor.
    dac122's Avatar
    dac122 Posts: 463, Reputation: 17
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    #3

    Dec 18, 2008, 02:15 PM

    Yank the inducer first to see if you have any debris or squatter pests.
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #4

    Dec 18, 2008, 07:15 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Almaguer View Post
    You will need a continuity tester to check the capacitor.
    Negative. You need to read the microfarads not the continuity. You can have continuity through the cap but the MF's could be too low.

    If the motor is humming and then drops out then it is over amping and opening up on internal overload. Either the motor has failed or something is jammed up inside the assembly.
    letmetellu's Avatar
    letmetellu Posts: 3,151, Reputation: 317
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    #5

    Dec 18, 2008, 07:26 PM

    I just replaced an inducer motor on a Carrier furnace, both of the above advisors gave you good advise, one about the motor being burned or shorted, the other about trash being in the squirl cage. One thing though these motors do not have a capacitor.
    If your motor needs replacing and it is either a Carrier, Bryant or Payne be prepared to spend some bucks. And I am sure that other models are just as bad.

    If you atempt to tackle this job yourself, pay attention on how it all comes apart, it can be tricky getting it back together the right way. Also be very careful with the gasket that is between the motor housing and the firewall of the furnace
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #6

    Dec 18, 2008, 07:31 PM

    Chances are that you will not change just the motor but the entire inducer assembly. On a residential system that is the way it goes... and yes they will be expensive.
    wmproop's Avatar
    wmproop Posts: 3,749, Reputation: 91
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    #7

    Dec 18, 2008, 07:37 PM

    Changing entire inducer assembly,, is much easier than trying to replace just the motor,, the extra time it takes to change out just the motor isn`t worth the few extra bucks you`ll spend
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #8

    Dec 18, 2008, 07:42 PM

    Usually you can't get just the motor for a residential system.
    letmetellu's Avatar
    letmetellu Posts: 3,151, Reputation: 317
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    #9

    Dec 18, 2008, 08:10 PM

    I found just the opposite from my distributor, they carry the motor only but not the whole package, This is the Carried, Bryant, Payne distributor, it may be different in this city with distributors of other brands.
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #10

    Dec 18, 2008, 08:11 PM

    I've only found that to be true with commercial roof top units.
    heim1964's Avatar
    heim1964 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Dec 18, 2008, 08:28 PM

    I'm hvac challenged and knew nothing until I found this site and started reading. My inducer motor has been noisy for a while now and I've found the same as Letmetellu. You can get just the motor, the wheel and the fan separately [Bryant plus 80]. I did what was suggested on my post for a similar problem and tapped on the pressure switch while the furnace was runnning and it shut down. I ordered an inducer motor and a dual pressure switch that I'll be installing tomorrow... wish me luck!
    wmproop's Avatar
    wmproop Posts: 3,749, Reputation: 91
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    #12

    Dec 18, 2008, 08:34 PM

    Good luck
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #13

    Dec 18, 2008, 08:38 PM

    If you are replacing the motor only, I do wish you luck... getting the wheel off the old assembly.
    heim1964's Avatar
    heim1964 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Dec 18, 2008, 09:15 PM

    Thanks guys. Sorry if my post turned into a hi-jack, didn't intend it to. I looked for my old post... there's a lot of traffic here! I'm an auto mechanic by trade, so I'll try not to screw it up. Sure don't want to be completely out of heat in the middle of winter. I guess I could let it keep going as is until the ambient temp goes up. The house is staying warm, just keeps flashing code #31 and just doesn't seem to be operating 100%. I will say, after lightly tapping on the pressure switch it has been working better? :confused:
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #15

    Dec 19, 2008, 09:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KC13 View Post
    If you are replacing the motor only, I do wish you luck...getting the wheel off the old assembly.
    Which is exactly why I order a new wheel as a rule.

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