[Bginr]

After putting in a new bathroom floor, the old cast iron toilet flange is a half inch above the finished floor. That is, the bottom of the flange rim is a half inch above the floor. Would I be okay to install the toilet on this, or do I need to fix the height.

[massplumber2008]

Hey Bginr:

You are in a tight spot there, you are... ;)

I say you have little to lose by trying to set the toilet as presented. The PROBLEM arises in fact that the flange may be set so high to the new floor that ALL THE WAX squeezes out when you set the toilet bowl... resulting in leak at time of setting or SOON.. down the road.

Is this toilet on 1st floor so if leaks, leaks into dirt basement... or is there finished ceiling below this toilet..

I suggest again, can try to set the toilet... make work out for awhile.

As an insured/licensed plumber, I can't take the chance, so I will crack that flange out (as long as cast iron pipe lower then finished floor height) and install a new flange. That may sound tough.. but with right tools and LOTS of courage... ;) bet you could do it!

Anyway, let me know if basement below or finished ceiling... there are a couple "options"... let me know what you're thinking... Mark

If this helped please RATE THIS ANSWER. Thank you.

[Bginr]

The toilet's located on the 2nd floor w/ finished ceiling below. The flange measures approx. 2.5 inches from top to bottom. The bottom of the flange, as well as the cast iron pipe leading to the waste pipe, is below the finished floor. Just so you know, I still haven't installed the cement backer or floor tiles yet. The half inch I mentioned in my first post is what will be remaining after I put down both. If I raise the floor the additional half inch, it won't line up with the floor levels at the 2 entry doors. I know it sounds complicated. Please let me know of the options available. Thanks for the quick reply.

[Knucklez]

What about raising only the area under your toilet? Put your bowl down on some 1/4 plywood and trace out the shape. Cut it 1/8" on the inside so your bowl hangs over ever so slightly.. glue/screw it down. Place bowl.. fill around wood with white caulking...

Just a thought... no idea if this is a good/bad idea ;P

I say this cause I had the same problem as you.. but in the end I just cut the flange out and re-did it.. . probably both the same amount of effort.

Knucklez

[massplumber2008]

BGINR:

Not complicated at all Bginr... see this all the time.

If you install the cement board in thinset mortar (as required by hardibacker or wonderboard manufacturers) and tile in thinset mortar you may find this 1/2" difference from underside of flange to finished tile floor disappears. May not, though...maybe you already figured that in to your numbers.

Otherwise, may need to remove old flange as previously mentioned and set new one. Bear with me now....a few options for you.

You could "crack" the old cast iron flange out using hammer and cold chisel (I do not recommend this one for you..ok??) and then install a new cast iron flange so it sits down tight to finish floor.

You could "drill" out the old lead using a 3/8" drill bit (or whichever size drill bit fits lead space at flange best) and then remove old flange. Here, you can drill through lead (about an 1" or so deep) for a couple inches around the flange and then using a large screwdriver actually PRY the lead ring up and out of the flange. Then will need to remove the oakum that is under the lead....rock flange..and pull it up and off pipe.

Then you could install a new leaded-in cast iron toilet flange OR you could try one of the newer "TWIST AND SET" cast iron replacement closet flanges (see pic). Here, as long as cast iron pipe up to cement floor or so can simply twist and set the flange INSIDE the cast iron pipe... drill through tiles and set the flange tight to floor.

Now, with all that explained, I would go ahead and install the flooring and see where that leaves you. If within 1/4" to 1/2" off finish floor..YOU MAY JUST MAKE IT WITHOUT touching the flange. Let us know what you think/decide.

Glad to help... Mark

If this answer helped please RATE THIS ANSWER. Thank you.

[speedball1]

After putting in a new bathroom floor, the old cast iron toilet flange is a half inch above the finished floor. That is, the bottom of the flange rim is a half inch above the floor. Would I be okay to install the toilet on this, or do I need to fix the height.

Ifthis were my call I would take a small piece of 2 X 4 and a hammer and began to tap all around the lead joint with the 2 X 4 to loosen the caulked joint and force it down to grade. After I lowered the cast iron flange I would take a adjustable wrench and "nibble" the cast ior pipe down by biting off little chunks. Then I would recaulk the lead and oakum joint. You may now set your toilet. Good luck, Tom

[iamgrowler]

The toilet's located on the 2nd floor w/ finished ceiling below. The flange measures approx. 2.5 inches from top to bottom. The bottom of the flange, as well as the cast iron pipe leading to the waste pipe, is below the finished floor. Just so you know, I still haven't installed the cement backer or floor tiles yet. The half inch I mentioned in my first post is what will be remaining after I put down both. If I raise the floor the additional half inch, it won't line up with the floor levels at the 2 entry doors. I know it sounds complicated. Please let me know of the options available. Thanks for the quick reply.

Well since the finished floor isn't down yet, here's yet another option;

Remove the existing flange using Toms method and install a torque-set closet flange.

After the torque set flange is installed flush to the subflooring, you can then trim off the excess piping protruding from the top of the flange with an angle grinder and diamond cut off blade.

[Bginr]

A big thanks to everybody for all the help/suggestions. At present, I'm considering all options. Tom... is the lead joint the part inside of the flange below the rim, and do I tap it from the top? Also, what do I need to recaulk the lead and oakum joint?