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    mitchsc's Avatar
    mitchsc Posts: 802, Reputation: 7
    Senior Member
     
    #1

    Mar 17, 2008, 09:33 AM
    Toshiba CE27F15 27" TV with cable input issue
    I have a Toshiba CE27F15 27" TV, vintage 1996.

    The video input works fine, but the cable input is breaking up the signal, audio and video. It's thermally sensitive, as the problem improves when the set warms up for 20 minutes or so. Sometimes it clears completely. (It's not the cable, connector, or signal)

    I haven't cracked it open yet because I don't have a schematic.

    Any ideas where to start? Is there a free schematic available somewhere on-line?

    The set works great other than this, but it's not worth putting much money into since it's so old. But I'd like to give it one good attempt at a repair.

    Thanks, All...
    biggsie's Avatar
    biggsie Posts: 1,267, Reputation: 125
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    #2

    Mar 17, 2008, 10:08 AM
    I thought you might try to check the cables -- try a VCR or DVD to check the TV

    Not all cables are created equal -- can you test them before opening TV

    Toshiba TV Model CE27F15
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
    Printers & Electronics Expert
     
    #3

    Mar 17, 2008, 12:19 PM
    Define breaking up the signal?

    Is the image on the screen hashing's or stopping and going. If so, call the cable company. While these types of failures are more common on satellite setups during bad weather, cable is not immune from these problems.
    mitchsc's Avatar
    mitchsc Posts: 802, Reputation: 7
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    #4

    Mar 17, 2008, 03:29 PM
    I've tested the cable, connector, splitter, and signal with another TV. I've also cleaned the coax cable connector on back of set. The problem is definitely the TV.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
    Printers & Electronics Expert
     
    #5

    Mar 20, 2008, 10:03 AM
    Mitch,

    Are you an TV servicer or have been trained in electronics?

    Secondly, can you move the cable input to a different port and run for a while?
    biggsie's Avatar
    biggsie Posts: 1,267, Reputation: 125
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    #6

    Mar 20, 2008, 10:34 AM
    If you have electronic experience and have repaired tvs -- find schematic

    If not save your money and have a professional repair it -- you decide

    Putting money in an older TV is not really a good idea
    mitchsc's Avatar
    mitchsc Posts: 802, Reputation: 7
    Senior Member
     
    #7

    Mar 20, 2008, 10:47 AM
    Don - I was trained in electronics and did TV repair for many years, back in the analog days. I only have 1 cable input, and that's the one giving me problems. I am temporarily using my video input and my VCR as a tuner. But whatever is intermittent, is bleeding into my audio even when I use the video inputs. So I'd like to fix this if I can.

    Biggsie - I'm not working right now, so I'd like to give this a shot. I completely agree, the set is not worth calling in for service, or probably even buying a board. Somehow, I still manage to repair most electronic failures around the house. A schematic would make this so much easier though.

    Thanks Guys...
    mitchsc's Avatar
    mitchsc Posts: 802, Reputation: 7
    Senior Member
     
    #8

    Mar 20, 2008, 05:15 PM
    Hello All,

    For those of you that have been assisting me with this problem, I thought you might like to know, I solved it. I was in essence a cold solder joint, but more.

    An electrolytic cap which was tack soldered onto the back of the main board, had one lead literally just touching the solder pad. It was never actually soldered in place. It wasn't even through the hole in the pad... just touching it.

    It's amazing to me that the set worked perfectly for 12 years before this showed itself.

    In any case, thanks again everyone for all your help.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #9

    Mar 21, 2008, 06:31 AM
    Glad you got it, I was thinking a cold or cracked solder connection or thermal intermiddent in which Heat or freeze spray can reveal a problem.
    Were you getting the white bars across from the electrolytic open(out of circuit)?

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