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In order from best to least best:
Punch such as this one: GREENLEE 730BB-3/4 3/4" Hole-Size Standard Round Knockout Punch Unit - Toolup.com A Unibit (requires step drilling) A hole saw Dimple for sure. A small bit to start the hole, like 1/16 to 1/8. Cobalt bits recommended. Keep the bit cool. Stainless is best drilled with a fair amount of force. If you don't keep it cool, it will work harden and become impossible to drill. That first pilot hole will be critical. A variable speed drill will help when creating the first pilot hole. A drill bit in sheet metal drills a triangular shaped hole. I have not seen a brad point bit in 3/4 inch. I've ground the tips of 5/8 bits for cutting round holes in polycarbonate. I'd suggest practice drilling in some scrap steel at the local hardware store. The walking can be a big problem. Clamp securely. |
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:mad:DAM! I searched all over and No one have picture of it?
Some say " It's hard to Drill Stainless Steels, It's Tough to Drill Stainless Steels " LIES, LIES, LIES!! I got MAD, so Here is how I did it. I took before and After pix so you all can see . I also included what type of tools I used to do it, wear Eye Protection, it was DAM so EASY! 1. I punched a hole in where I needed, I use NAILS, then a small bit to drill break the Hole. Use Xtra WD-40 for this one. 2. Once I got the small Hole, I used BOSCH TITANIUM Drill Bits, 5/64", 7/64", 7/32", 5/16", 1/2" with the help of WD-40 to Drill stepping up the Hole bigger and bigger to 1/2". 3. Since I needed the Hole to be 1-1/18". I trace it with a marker, I use a Round File and FILE the heck out of it until I got the Hole big enough to fit my New Soap Dispenser. 4. After about 1/2 an hour of Filing the Dam Hole with rest, cause I don't want to hurt my muscles the next day, LOL. I use the small file to smooth it out, DONE!! 5. To Clean-Up, I use a WET Paper Towel and Wrapped a Magnet around it so the Magnet will pick up all the Metals, even smallest pieces. 6. I can't seem to get help at all from searching all over the net to do this. I pretended that I was living in the Stone Age and use what I got just like the ancient Egyptians, LMFAO... Another thing, I also pretended that I was in Jail breaking out, it really helped Filing the Dam Hole Faster... hehehehehe Hope that will help someone. Use this and make the Hole as big as you want!:D:p JodBronson TOOLS:  BEFORE:  AFTER: 
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 Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid
Dang thing is EXPENSIVE!! I use what I got and COST = $0.00 If I was a Pro Plumber I would buy it, but I'm NOT I don't drill HOLES in my sink everyday, why bother buy something I will only use it one? My Medthod just as good and BEST of all, COST = $0.00 LMFAO Jod |
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Hi Jlisenbe:
To use this tool you will drill a hole that is large enough to accommodate the DRAW STUD. You slip the draw stud with the bushing/die and ball bearing nut on the top of the sink (in this case). Then you spin the punch section onto the draw stud from under the sink and spin it up tight to the bottom of the sink. Then you go up top and use a ratchet tool and socket of the correct size to tighten the ball bearing nut. This tightening draws the punch up into the metal and makes a perfect hole by literally PUNCHING OUT a circle. This is great on metal studs or other thin metals, but can cause an indent in thicker metals (such as thick gauge sink metal) that can be an issue if you aren't careful. I have used both hole saws and punches to make additional holes in sinks. The hole saws were messy and noisy and if you slip.. you own the sink... *OUCH... but overall this made a really nice hole. The punch was also a bit noisy/messy as I had to drill a couple holes to get the proper hole size for the draw stud, and it created a bit of a dent at the sides of the hole, but again, made a nice hole in the end. I would recommend ewither way. Hope that all made sense... MARK PS: Jod...you are a patient man....nice job!! . |
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Those, you typically start with a pilot hole. For that size probably 3/8". You take out the screw and your left with a punch and a die. You put one side on the top and another on the bottom. You then crank the screw until the punch punches through. You end up with a bent washer that can be a pain to get off for thicker metal. For those that use them often, there is a hydraulic actuator that can be used. These are cool too for enlarging holes in sheet metal. They come out centered and would have been a more approprite tool: Klein Unibit Step Drill Bits, Klein 59001, Klein 59002 I here these work like a champ too, but not for enlarging holes. IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. - TKO™ Carbide Tipped Hole Cutters I IDEAL 36-303 TKO Carbide Tipped Hole Cutter 1-1/8" - Toolup.com I can see how they would work better than the punch. The punch is actually a bad way of making a hole in sheet metal slightly bigger. At least you get a round hole. The punch method wouldn't work too well to enlarge a hole for 1" to 1-1/8". The Step drill exells at that. The carbide cutter, you would need a way of centering it. |
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Sorry guys... but the Hole Punch tool is not something I would recommend. It bends the stainless steel the way that it will be visible from distance. Based on advice from stainless steel manufacturer's engineer, the only safe way to cut Stainless Steel is: 1. Drill Pilot Hole 2. Use Starrett Hole Saw bit to dril the hole 3. Drill Speed should NOT exceed 800 RPMs Important: even with the Pilot Hole drilled - make sure you make a template from 3/8 ply, clamp it in place and then drill through the template. Don't use any lubricant on it. |
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To enlarge, the step has everything beat. Self-centering, round hole and automatic deburring and won't pull through. Remember too, that the brad point bit or pilot bit drills are much better than regular drills for sheet metal. They drill a round hole and won't pull through. Without a variable speed torge limiting drill you'll end up with a nice big dent from the drill chuck slamming into the sink. They are great for the pilot hole. Cobolt steel is even better for hard metals. Cobalt Steel Drill Bits are designed for hard metals., DeWalt Industrial Tool Co. DeWalt Drill Bits and Sets, Pilot / Split Point Drill Bits PS: I've machined lots of stuff using lathes, mills and drill presses. At such low speeds and so little material removal lubercation shouldn't be necessary. |
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Originally Posted by jlisenbe
You then drill a hole a little larger then the bolt on the hole punch. Place one section under the sink and the other on top and tighten the bolt until it punches through. We use them to allow a three hole sink to install a sprayer or a sink with a sprayer to install a ivsta-hot or a soap dispenser. Regarding Milos warning about using hole punches, my company has been usingthen for nyears with no complaints about "dimpling the stainless steel the way that it will be visible from distance. " As against "close up"? Any dimpling is covered by the escutcheon. Go figure! Like I said. Years of use with no complaints. Regards, Tom |
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