[TxGreaseMonkey]

O.k.

[mross1427]

I found out that the crank shaft sensors on this honda are located internally. You would have to pull a good part of the front of the engine down to get to them. After talking to a friend of mine that worked at Honda for 2 years, he said he never change one of these before. So I guess I can rule that out.
The ignitor coil is the one that I was talking about before, I was calling it the rotor coil. I think this is the last part inside the distributor that we did not change yet. I wonder if this is bad? I found the part local for 65.00.
Honda has the whole distributor will all components for 385.00 I guess I am into it to for now, but maybe that would have been the way to go?
Tks for any help, you have been really good with your advice.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is also called the ignitor. In the recap, last night, you said, "Yes I changed the ICM,coil,rotor, dist.cap, and main relay."

From the beginning, I felt the likely culprit was a failing ICM inside your distributor. If you haven't replaced the ICM, yet, it's a must. I only started thinking about the Crankshaft Position Sensor because you told me everything, except the computer and distributor housing, had been replaced. This is what the ICM (ignitor) looks like:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

I don't think your ECM (computer), distributor housing, or Crankshaft Position Sensor are bad. If replacing the ICM doesn't solve the problem, I'm pretty much out of ideas. Therefore, be sure to replace the ICM and the ignition coil.

[mross1427]

Recap: yes that is correct I changed all the parts in the distributor including the ICM. The ICM was of the WELLS brand that I bought. $90.00 VS the honda ICM part, 234.00. Do you think this makes any differnence?
I was just reading another e-mail and this guy had the same problem. After doing all that you and I did, including replacing the whole distributor 3 times, the car still kills after 5,000 miles were put on it. They thought they had it fixed. Now his wife just wants to trade it in for a new car. You still need to fix it so someone doesn't get stuck with a lemon.
TXgreasemonkey, don't give up on me yet! You must have another idea?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I'm confused. This is what you said, on posting #22,

The ignitor coil is the one that I was talking about before, I was calling it the rotor coil. I think this is the last part inside the distributor that we did not change yet. I wonder if this is bad?

Somewhere we are not communicating--it sounds like something was not changed. Do you still need to replace the ignition coil?

I don't think who makes the part is the problem here, as long as you know it's Well's replacement for the exact ICM that came out of your car. The next step is to replace the distributor housing (Genuine Honda only) or the computer (ECM). If you replace the distributor housing, install the new parts you just bought; then, you have not wasted any money.

Have you performed the K-Test on your ECM? If not, try that. However, since the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, I don't think your ECM is bad.

Since I'm running out of ideas, why don't you check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter, just for the heck of it? Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

[mross1427]

Yes the ignition coil was changed. Glad to hear that brand doesn't matter. Great idea about changing just the housing on the distributor. I forgot to get a price on that alone. No I haven't performed K-test because no lights are on dash. I did check all the fuses just by sight but that is a good idea and I will check with a multimeter. I'll let you know how I make out tommorrow's project. Thanks for keeping the wheels turning and quick responses to my questions. I'm hanging on the edge and you are of great help to keep me plugging away. I'll get in touch with you tomorrow to see how it goes.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you decide to replace the distributor housing, my advice is to only buy it from Honda (no aftermarket). Many people on this site have had problems with new aftermarket distributors. Here's how to replace it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

[mross1427]

Hello TXgreaseMonkey,

Well, I did like you said. I checked all the fuses with a meter and they all check good. All were clean, no burnt spots anywhere. I did remove the battery terminal for about 5 minutes, not thinking this would do anything, and put it back. Ever since I did that the car never acted up again.
I had a appointment with Honda of Covington today to check on a recall on my car. I gave him the VIN # , however it was a recall on the mechanical part not electrical part of the ignition. You would be able to take the key out of the ignition when the car was still in drive. He checked it while we were there and said it was fine.
The other recall, not on my car, was on the contacts when you turn the key, making up. He said this would cause the vehicle to stall if this was bad. He wiggled the key and this was not the problem at all with this vehicle. You and I had already diagnostic this anyway.

The service manager did not want me to leave the car with him for diagnostics, because he said the car would have to fail for him to be able to find the bad part.
He said we did everything correct, as for as , troubleshooting and repairing the car. He does believe that whoever told you to disconnect the battery teriminal to reset the computer is a very smart man. That's you!!
He said that he had a car like this and they did the same thing, after resetting the computer the car never acted up again.
I will keep you posted, our car has not acted up in three days now. I hope and pray that it is fixed for good. We plan to take a ride today on the interstate about 1 hour away to my sister restruant in Pass Christian, Mississippi. This should be a good test.
The wife was already looking at new Toyota FJ crusiers, she likes this one.
I thank you for the help, you just saved me about $25,000 dollars. Ha! Ha!
I am planning to build a new garage on my 3 acre property and this would have set me back a little while.
Tks for all the help, and I will let you know either way of the outcome.
Merry Christmas to you and your family, may GOD continue to bless your ministry.
Michael

[TxGreaseMonkey]

That's good news, Michael. Yes, disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a while forces the computer to "go back to school" and learn many things all over again. It can even improve shifting points on an automatic transmission. After I change the ATF and filter in my Taurus' ATX, I disconnect the negative battery terminal overnight.

[mross1427]

That's a winner! I like when the computer goes back to school to learn new things, like keeping the car running. Ha! Ha! Tks for all the help
Michael