I have a 99 Honda Accord EX 4 cylinder. While I was driving on the causeway at 50mph, the engine just shut off. NO lights on the dash came on, the engine cranked back up while gliding. I drove for about 1 more mile and the engine shut off again the same. I was able to glide into the 4th cross over on the and get my family out of arms way. Talk about scary. The car started right back up on the cross over, running fine. I let it idle for 15 minutes and it ran fine. It lost my trust so I called a tow truck to bring the car home.

I notice a couple of month prior to this incident the car would start right up and the engine would shut off immediately. Some times it does this four times, before the engine stays running. I brought it to the shop and they changed the fuel filter in the tank, but that did not change anything. The car was still acting up every other day or so upon starting.
This is the first time it ever killed when I was running on the highway.
Someone told me to change the distributor, do you think this is the problem? I think this car had a recall on the ignition, so I am wondering if the electrical part of the ignition is acting up? I wigged the key when the car is running and it does not kill the engine. I am thinking the key switch is fine. The mechanic does not want to fool with it because he said he will only be guessing. Please advise, I need to get this car fixed.

Here's what I would do, if the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, and you have no reason to suspect the alternator or battery:

. Check for codes.

. Replace Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor:

Here's what the ICM looks like and costs:

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Here's what the coil looks like and costs:

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Here's how to replace the components yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

This is the logical time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap, while you have the distributor open.

. Replace main relay, which is located to the left of the steering column, if the problem persists.

If you do the work yourself, it should cost very little to solve the problem. The ICM is the likely culprit.

Tks I am going to change the ICM and the coil, cap and rotor. I wanted to add this remark that I did notice a click, like a relay inside the car, every time the engine when off. However sometimes it clicks and I just get a lost of power for a second, but the engine stayed running in the pass. The other night when it killed on the bridge I had the deforst, AC, Lights, windshield wiper on all at the same time, and I heard the click in the car. The wife things if I would have turned all this off, we could have made it off the bridge. I wasn't going to take the chance. I wonder if this is sounding more like the main relay you were talking about?

I was looking for the main relay under the dash. Could you show me a picture of what this looks like too? Is that the official name, main relay, or do they call it something else?
Tks is advance for being such a great help

It officially goes by the name PGM-FI Main Relay. It may look like one of those below:

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It's located to the left of the steering column. If you turn the ignition key on and off, you will hear it and can feel it go on and off--this will help you locate it. Buy an exact match. It may have as many as 7 wires going into its connector.

If you replace the ICM, coil, and main relay, the odds are excellent that "like new" reliability and performance will be restored to your Accord.

Hey that was great! I did just like you told me and easily located the main relay. I didn't think about turning the key on and off.
I am going to change all three like you said because I like the idea of reliability, and I know my wife loves it.
Do you think I should change the rotor button while I am in the distributor? It is mounted with two screws on a bracket and has a couple of wires going to it.
Tks for being such a great help, I am all excited that I am going to get this babe rolling again.

Yes, I would replace the rotor (located on the end of the distributor shaft) and the distributor cap. The bracket (heat sink) with two screws and wires going to it is the ICM.

The Honda shop was calling this the rotor button. It is mounted on the bottom side of the distributor shaft housing, looks like a coil with a contact sticking out. ( Hitachi brand) It is mounted on a bracket with two screws and I was wondering if you need to gap this between the distributor shaft and the contact on this rotor button? It seems like you could put a feeler gauge between these to get a accurate distance from the shaft.
The ICU was mounted to the distributor housing on the firewall side of the distributor. It has three wires contected to it, I got this part already.
It seems I have something extra in my distributor; Coil, ICU, rotor,Distributor button coil on bracket. Should I leave this Distributor button alone are try to get the replacement part? Tks for all your great knowledge.

I would replace the rotor, while you have the distributor open--no gapping should be required. The key to replacing the Ignition Control Module is to apply a light, even coat of silicone grease to the back of the ICM. You don't want too much grease or too little. It facilitates heat transfer from the ICM to the heat sink. Be sure to buy a new distributor cap, too.

Gotcha! I have all the parts will change tomorrow and let you know how I made out. I am on vacation right now so I have time. You really helped me out in a time of despair. I was getting frustrated because no one knew what to do to fix the problem. Not even my local mechanic shop, he said he can change a bunch of parts and see what happens. That really gave me a lot of confidence in his work.
Tks a bunch and may God bless your ministry, what a gift to us.
I am going to tell my friends about you site too.

Well, I changed all the parts as above and drove the car for one day a couple of hours, not all at once, errons. The engine killed again just as before I changed any parts. No lights came on at all in the dash, prior to killing.
I was traveling 35 MPH in the city of Covington, and all of a sudden my tachometer and speedometer are on zero. I am gliding at this time and pull over on the side of the road. I turn the key and she cranks right up as if nothing happened. I drove home 1/2 mile and it was fine. What do you think it could be? The only thing I am thinking of is that rotor button in the distributor like I was talking about before. This is the only thing we did not change in the distributor. I took a digital shot of it, if I can figure out how to send it to you I will. Please help, I thought we had it fix for a little while.
Tks is advance, [email protected]

Please let me know something soon, so that I can get the parts. What about the ECU? Do you think that could be it?
I am going to get a price, they say this is expense. Tks

. Change the rotor, but I doubt that will solve the problem. Some, however, have electrical components in them that can fail--most don't.
. Check for codes--AutoZone will do this for free. This may shed light on whether any sensor inside the distributor is bad or not; i.e. TDC, CKP, and CYL. Many Honda distributors start to go from 70,000 miles+, due to bearing wear. As the bearing wears, due to the grease wearing out, internal sensors are destroyed. Frequently, a rust-colored dust covers all of the components inside the distributor, which is a tip-off that the distributor is failing. At 95,000 miles my Civic's distributor bearing failed. I bought a new Genuine Honda distributor housing and reused the Ignition Control Module, coil, rotor, and distributor cap from the old unit. If necessary, here's how to replace the distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

. Ensure the spark plugs (NGK only) are not more than two years old.
. Ensure the ignition switch is good. Call your local Honda dealer and see if there has been a TSB concerning the ignition switch in your Accord.

To recap, did you replace the ICM, coil, main relay, and distributor cap?

If the Check Engine Light comes on for two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to on, and then goes out, most intermittent Honda engines cut out due to failing ICMs, coils, and main relays. After that, replacing the distributor housing solves most problems. If the Check Engine Light didn't go out, then the ECM (computer) would be suspect. Hope this helps.

If the Check Engine Light stays on, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

A new ECM from Honda, with a 1 year warranty, goes for around $1,000. It is possible that, during heat soak, something is intermittently breaking down in your ECM. If you performed the K-Test, at that time, the voltage would likely be a fraction of one volt and indicate ECM failure. Should replacing the distributor housing not solve the problem, then the I'm left to conclude the ECM is failing. Remember, you are rapidly approaching the point when your distributor housing will likely need to be replaced--grease only lasts so long. Unfortunately, the distributors are not splash lubricated; therefore, they have a limited life. The newer Hondas are distributorless (fortunately).

Recap: yes I changed the ICM,coil,rotor, dist.cap, and main relay.
Today the car just killed and no indication lights came on. She started right back up.

Auto zone: ck out codes; No lights are staying on in the dash, I would think there is no code to ask about if the lights are not coming on to indicate a problem?

The inside of the distributor was nice and clean, no rusty color on parts.

Call Honda Dealer: What is a TSB? I was told a while back that the only recall on this car was the ignition switch. I wiggle the key to try to get the car to kill while the engine is running and it stays running. Do they have a relay for the eletrical part of this switch? Maybe that is the problem?

Check engine light: This never did come on, so hopefully that rules out the ECM? That is a expense part.

Spark plugs: I just changed them around 4 months ago; yes NGK was used.

I will wait to hear from you about that ignition switch relay, see how I can check the electrical side of this switch.
Tks for all the patience, we got to be getting close to solving this mystery.

A TSB is a Technical Service Bulletin.

Besides replacing the distributor housing or the ECM, you have replaced all of the items that normally cause intermittent problems. Here's something we have not done, yet. Remove and clean the main ECM ground (3-wire brass connector) on the thermostat housing. Afterwards, remove the negative battery cable for 15 seconds, to reset the computer. The main relay really is the ignition switch relay.

Did you ensure all female connectors, inside the distributor, were clean and tight?

Does your Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go out, after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? If your CEL is burned out, there may be codes thrown you don't know about. Personally, I would check for codes, even if the CEL doesn't come on.

**IMPORTANT: I just noticed that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is not inside the distributor on your Accord. This external sensor is often exposed to the elements and is a source of problems on many cars. You may want to locate it and check it out. Ensure the pickups are clean and everything looks okay. Here's what it looks like:

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Ok, I am going to clean the ground on the ECM, that sounds like we are onto something.

I was thinking that the main relay was the ignition relay, but wasn't sure. Glad you made me feel good about this one now.

Female connectors were a little lose, so I crimped one with the pliers like you said. Then I could't get it on the male. I had to loosen it a little to make it fit. The three on the ICM were clean and slug, but not overly tight. I left these as they were.

The check engine light does come on for two seconds like you said as a test each time we use the car.

ON the CKP, I did notice they are sitting in the elements. How should I check these, besided a visual look?
The wife came back today from a Pilgrimage to Mexico City, Our Lady of Guadalupe feast day celebration. I told here the car is doing better ,but it still is not fixed. We are working and she is praying. Tks for answering so late.

For the CKP Sensor, I would disconnect the negative battery terminal, unfasten one pickup, ensure the pickup and surrounding area are clean, and reattach it. Then, do the same thing to the other pickup.

I am having trouble locating the three wire brass connector for the ECM ground. I don't have anything coming off the Thermostat housing except one metal bracket to hold a plactic wiring harness. This is right in the front of the engine.
I see in the back on the driver side, four black wires that are gounded to the intake manifold with a # 10 head bolt. This comes out of the wiring harness. Would this possible be the ground that I am looking for?

That may be it on your car. It's usually a 10 mm bolt.

Wonderful, I will clean those tomorrow. It is getting late. Tks a million