[kebebos]

This is my problem: I have an ancient rusted 1 1/2" black pipe washing machine drain that came with the house when we bought it. The pipe has a black pipe "Y" fitting on top (don't ask me why) where the washing machine drain hose goes in. Immediately below the "Y" is a 45º ell, connected to the "Y" by a very short all-thread coupling. Lately this drain backs up for about 3 to 5 seconds every time the washing machine empties its water, possibly because the pipe diameter is too small and the ell is so close to the drain point. We end up with water all over the floor. I've used a snake and there's no obstruction. I've sent water down the drain with a garden hose and it doesn't back up. The pressure that the washing machine puts out when it drains must be too much for this small drain pipe and Mickey Mouse "Y" entry. This contraption is so close to the wall that I could not attempt to unthread the "Y" even if it were not rusted. In an attempt to remedy this situation, I cut off the "Y' with a Sawsall. I was hoping not to damage the remaining threads on the coupling. I tried to thread a female coupling on to the remaining threads, but its no use - it won't even begin to thread. MY QUESTION IS THIS: is it possible to wire brush the threads of the old coupling, put plumber's putty on the threads and use a Fernco 1 1/2" x 2" coupling to seal the threads and create a joint to 2" PVC pipe? I think this might give the initial blast of water enough room to move so that it doesn't come pouring out over the top. Is the Plumber's putty/Fernco idea a doable thing?

[letmetellu]

You could do that but I am afraid that if your problem is being caused by what you said it will still be there when the water goes out of the two inch and kits where it reduces to 1 1/2 inch. So here is my suggestion, do it like you said but in the top of the Y extend the pipe up another two foot, also where the washer hose goes into the Y do something to seal that point so water can not leak out, That way the excess water may rise up into the extension for that first few seconds and then it may drain naturally without the flood on the floor.
Let me know if this works for you.

[kebebos]

This is my problem: I have an ancient rusted 1 1/2" black pipe washing machine drain that came with the house when we bought it. The pipe has a black pipe "Y" fitting on top (don't ask me why) where the washing machine drain hose goes in. Immediately below the "Y" is a 45º ell, connected to the "Y" by a very short all-thread coupling. Lately this drain backs up for about 3 to 5 seconds every time the washing machine empties its water, possibly because the pipe diameter is too small and the ell is so close to the drain point. We end up with water all over the floor. I've used a snake and there's no obstruction. I've sent water down the drain with a garden hose and it doesn't back up. The pressure that the washing machine puts out when it drains must be too much for this small drain pipe and Mickey Mouse "Y" entry. This contraption is so close to the wall that I could not attempt to unthread the "Y" even if it were not rusted. In an attempt to remedy this situation, I cut off the "Y' with a Sawsall. I was hoping not to damage the remaining threads on the coupling. I tried to thread a female coupling on to the remaining threads, but its no use - it won't even begin to thread. MY QUESTION IS THIS: is it possible to wire brush the threads of the old coupling, put plumber's putty on the threads and use a Fernco 1 1/2" x 2" coupling to seal the threads and create a joint to 2" PVC pipe? I think this might give the initial blast of water enough room to move so that it doesn't come pouring out over the top. Is the Plumber's putty/Fernco idea a doable thing?

Dear letmetellu - I like your idea about the Y extension, but there is no Y any more... I cut it off with a Sawsall. All that's left is an all-thread coupling with damaged and rusty threads. And I don't have a lot of room over the ell - only about 12". That's why I'm thinking of plumber's putty to seal the threads, tightening a Fernco over this and adding the 2" PVC pipe as far up as I can to absorb the blowback. I think the 2" may give enough extra room. The main thrust of my question is: will plumber's putty on old rusty metal and a Fernco coupling do the trick? Is the putty compatible with the Fernco PVC? Will the putty withstand the pressure?

[speedball1]

Let me give you another option. I also have a 1 1/2" standpipe that overflows when the washer discharges. You may try adding more length and increasing the size but if that don't work let me give you a solution that has solved the backup problem for me.
Your stand pipe's threaded galvanized pipe. Remove all the fittings down tom the pipe itself and purchase a 1 1/2" female threaded compression fitting. Install this fitting on the top of the stand pipe and tighten the compression nut on the hose. This will make the washer drain a closed system and the pump will force the water on through with no back ups. I've had one on my stand pipe for the last three washers with no problems and have had no complaints from the people who have tried the same fix. Good luck, Tom

[kebebos]

Dear Speedball1 - Thanks for the idea. I'm going to try going straight up with 2" PVC, and if that doesn't work your solution is the next thing I'll try. I wish I had been able to try to unthread that rusted Y, but the clowns who installed this thing have it right up against the wall. If I hadn't had to cut the thing off, I might have some useable thread there. What I've done right now (for anyone interested) is: I've brushed off as much rust from the threads as I can with a small plumber's joint wire brush. Next, I've packed the threads with Rectorseal EP-400 Epoxy Putty to make a smooth surface. Now I'll install a Fernco 1 1/2"x 22" coupling on that surface and add a length of 2" PVC pipe and go as high as I can. I've only got 12" to work in, so wish me luck.

[labman]

If that doesn't work, and you don't want to follow Tom's suggestion, you can cut the pipe off below the coupling and Fernco from there.

[kebebos]

OK guys - for any one who is checking this out, this is how I solved the problem. 1) I cut off the Y with a Sawsall, leaving enough nipple thread to have a useable nipple (threaded or otherwise). 2) When I realised that the remaining thread was unusable, I brushed off all the rust from the threads with one of those small red-handled wire brushes used by plumbers. 3) I packed the threads with Rectorseal EP-400 Epoxy Putty to give me a smooth, hard surface on the only useable nipple I had. 4) After the putty hardened, I had to file it somewhat to restore a good round nipple surface. I must admit, I used too much putty. If I had not panicked and carefully just packed the threads, I could have skipped this filing step. This was the first time I had used this putty and I was nervous about the 2-3 minute work window. 5) I installed a Fernco 1 1/2"x2" coupling on the new nipple. 6) I finished with a 10 1/2' length of 2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe. 7) I then tested the new assembly by sending the washing machine through a small load rinse cycle with no clothing. I figure the load with clothing would be less water by at least 1-2 cups (water that would remain in the clothes). This assembly worked fine on a small load rinse. However, on a large load test it overflowed slightly. I then cut another length of PVC pipe 1 1/2" longer with a small square notch on the side for the washer hose to enter. The reason I did this is: the highest part of the hose faces an eletrical outlet, so it makes a good shield in case of overflow. The geniuses who installed this drain put it right next to electricity. I have tested this new assembly repeatedly, and it's working just fine. Everything is dry as a bone. I hope this description helps others who face similar problems. Remember, I'm a musician with no knowledge of plumbing other than the fact that I worked at a plumbing supply house for a short time. If you have a plumbing problem, I highly recommend this website.