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    djm284's Avatar
    djm284 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 1, 2007, 11:46 PM
    Re-sealing pvc/iron drain pipe connection? (see pic)
    Hello,

    Noticed the drain pipe leaking today in the basement whenever the toilet upstairs was flushed (sink/shower did not seem to make it leak). It was only leaking maybe 1/2 - 1 cup of water each time the toilet was flushed. Called a few plumbers. Only one got back to me so far. Said couldn't quote without looking at it but estimated $500-$800. Tough to swing that right now so went to Home Depot with pics to get some advise. Was told I could use Oatey Plumber's Putty for temporary (approx 6 mo) fix, and should go to plumbing store to get harder putty for permanent fix.

    So a spent a could hours scraping away all the old putty. In the areas where is was leaking, it looked like mud that I was scooping out. Dirty, wet putty I guess. After cleaned out as much as I could, I looked at the putty I bought and it said "DO NOT USE ON PLASTIC."

    So now I don't know what to do. Would like to still fix myself if possible. The drain pipe is set up as 3" PVC going into an Iron pipe measuring approx 4 3/4" outer diameter at the top, and about 3 3/4" internal diameter. The outer diameter of the iron is slightly smaller starting about 1in down from the top (shaped kind of like a mario brothers pipe). The PVC is jammed in there pretty far and seems like it would be tough to get out to put a rubber seal over it.

    Can I just use the plumbers putty, should I use the "better" putty from a plumbing supply store, would cutting the PVC and using a rubber seal be a better way to go?

    Pictures attached.

    Thanks for any help.
    Attached Images
     
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #2

    Jun 2, 2007, 07:39 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by djm284
    Hello,

    Noticed the drain pipe leaking today in the basement whenever the toilet upstairs was flushed (sink/shower did not seem to make it leak). It was only leaking maybe 1/2 - 1 cup of water each time the toilet was flushed. Called a few plumbers. Only one got back to me so far. Said couldn't quote without looking at it but estimated $500-$800. Tough to swing that right now so went to Home Depot with pics to get some advise. Was told I could use Oatey Plumber's Putty for temporary (approx 6 mo) fix, and should go to plumbing store to get harder putty for permanent fix.

    So a spent a could hours scraping away all the old putty. In the areas where is was leaking, it looked like mud that I was scooping out. Dirty, wet putty I guess. After cleaned out as much as I could, I looked at the putty I bought and it said "DO NOT USE ON PLASTIC."

    So now I don't know what to do. Would like to still fix myself if possible. The drain pipe is set up as 3" PVC going into an Iron pipe measuring approx 4 3/4" outer diameter at the top, and about 3 3/4" internal diameter. The outer diameter of the iron is slightly smaller starting about 1in down from the top (shaped kind of like a mario brothers pipe). The PVC is jammed in there pretty far and seems like it would be tough to get out to put a rubber seal over it.

    Can I just use the plumbers putty, should I use the "better" putty from a plumbing supply store, would cutting the PVC and using a rubber seal be a better way to go?

    Pictures attached.

    Thanks for any help.
    I would use oakum and lead wool to fix this.

    Tamp the oakum in until you have about 1" of it tightly seated into the bottom of the hub, and then tightly tamp in the lead wool until it it flush with the top of the hub, you can then heat up the hub with a propane torch until the lead wool is slightly molten.

    After this, it is just a matter of tamping (caulking) the surface lead with a caulking iron.
    djm284's Avatar
    djm284 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #3

    Jun 2, 2007, 08:09 AM
    Thanks!

    Seattle, huh? I sure could go for some of that smoked salmon from the open market right about now! If you're ever up towards Everson, I highly recommend the Black Forrest Steakhouse. Best and cheapest NY strip I've ever had!

    A few follow-up questions...

    If I attempt to do this myself, will the torch and hot lead melt the pvc, or is it OK as long as I'm careful. Also, the right side of the joint is very tight, maybe an eighth of an inch or less. Will that be an issue when packing the oakum.

    This doesn't sound too difficult, and just called the local home depot and they have all the supplies. Anything I need to be particularly careful of as an amateur? Is there a special blunt yet thin tool (preferable with a right angle to get under the lip of the PVC connector) that I need to use so as not to damage the oakum, or is this more of a "stuff it in any way you can and you'll be fine" kind of deal?

    Thanks,
    Dave
    djm284's Avatar
    djm284 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #4

    Jun 2, 2007, 08:13 AM
    Two more pictures here to give the whole view...
    Attached Images
      
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #5

    Jun 2, 2007, 12:23 PM
    All that you had for caulking was plumbers putty? No lead joint or rubber gasket? Follow growlers advice. If you pack the lead wool down tight enough you shouldn't need to melt the lead. It's not the lead that prevents leaks, it's the oakum. Use inside and outside caulking irons on the lead wool. They can be rented at your local Rent-All Store. Good luck, Tom
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