[sal_salem]

I have a 98 honda accord EX 4 door, and only when its cold, it starts stuttering hard and feels like it wants to turn off... the RPM goes down and while I press the gas nothing happens, the speed slows down and the car feels like it wants to turn off, it's a manual transmission, and so I would have to press the clutch again so it doesn't turn off. I've changed the spark plugs, and spark plugs wires... I don't know whatelse to do, please someone help me, this is really bothering and stressing me out very badly :mad:

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check for codes.
. I would replace the igniter and coil in the distributor. I recommend doing this every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first. Make sure distributor cap and rotor are in good shape.
. I would also make sure the fuel filter has been replaced in the last 4 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first.

[sal_salem]

As in for the fuel filter and injection system, everything is good from the fuel part, I have done a full check up and everything is good, but as in for the distributor cap and igniter and coil... I should replace them? Am I better off just getting a new distrubor? Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes, after 90,000 miles or so the distributor bearing tends to fail. Only buy a Honda distributor housing. There have been numerous problems with new aftermarket distributors.

[sal_salem]

But all the mechanics that I've taken it to said that it wouldn't be the distributor because if it was, then that would mean the car doesn't always start up, someone said it would have something to do with the throtle? Or something about the wires or something like that... im reallly unsure of what to do

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It's not the distributor, per se, at this point. I believe the problem may very well be with the igniter or coil, which are inside the distributor. The igniter (Ignition Control Module), particularly, is a very problematic component. Here's what it looks like:

Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

Here's how to replace it yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Do a search on this site and see how many people's problems have been solved by replacing this component.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Run through the diagnostic steps listed in sections A and B below, if you want:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

[sal_salem]

So your saying both the coil and igniter are inside the distributor? Because to replace them alone is quite a bit expensive, I'd be better off to replace the whole distributor, it would be much cheaper for me that way. So if I replace the distributor, would it contain both the coil and igniter inside of them already? Please let me know, thanks.

[sal_salem]

Could the problem be something with the air intake? Or oxygen censor? Or are you positively sure it's the coil and igniter?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you change your air filter regularly (i.e. every 24,000 miles), you should be able to rule air intake out. It could be from a bad oxygen sensor, that's why it would be good to check for any codes with a scan tool. AutoZone will do this for free.

It's difficult to "pinpoint" the exact source of the problem from afar. Therefore, I can't be positive that I'm right. If you plan on keeping the car and you haven't replaced the igniter and coil, my experience is that it's a good thing to do. Again, these are very problematic components on Hondas.

I know money doesn't grow on trees, so you need to go with your gut. Maybe others will chime in and you can assess their thoughts.

[sal_salem]

I see, yea I am planing on keeping the car, but I live in canada, and I don't know of any places that would do a code check for free... the only place that does it, charges 40 dollars, and I was going to do that sometime next week... but if I do a code check, then they should tell me what the exact problem is right?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You only want to use NGK spark plugs on Hondas.

[sal_salem]

Alrite I will do what I can, thanks a lot for the help bro, its much appreciated.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

For $40, you can almost buy your own scan tool. Sometimes, a certain code will tell you exactly what's wrong; other times, they just send you in the general direction of what's wrong. It's an art-science, where experience is still a big part of it. Good luck.