Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    sal_salem's Avatar
    sal_salem Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jun 6, 2007, 11:51 AM
    98 HONDA ACCORD stuttors when its cold
    I have a 98 honda accord EX 4 door, and only when its cold, it starts stuttering hard and feels like it wants to turn off... the RPM goes down and while I press the gas nothing happens, the speed slows down and the car feels like it wants to turn off, it's a manual transmission, and so I would have to press the clutch again so it doesn't turn off. I've changed the spark plugs, and spark plugs wires... I don't know whatelse to do, please someone help me, this is really bothering and stressing me out very badly :mad:
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Jun 6, 2007, 12:55 PM
    . Check for codes.
    . I would replace the igniter and coil in the distributor. I recommend doing this every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first. Make sure distributor cap and rotor are in good shape.
    . I would also make sure the fuel filter has been replaced in the last 4 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first.
    sal_salem's Avatar
    sal_salem Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Jun 6, 2007, 01:07 PM
    As in for the fuel filter and injection system, everything is good from the fuel part, I have done a full check up and everything is good, but as in for the distributor cap and igniter and coil... I should replace them? Am I better off just getting a new distrubor? Thanks.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #4

    Jun 6, 2007, 01:32 PM
    Yes, after 90,000 miles or so the distributor bearing tends to fail. Only buy a Honda distributor housing. There have been numerous problems with new aftermarket distributors.
    sal_salem's Avatar
    sal_salem Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Jun 6, 2007, 05:14 PM
    But all the mechanics that I've taken it to said that it wouldn't be the distributor because if it was, then that would mean the car doesn't always start up, someone said it would have something to do with the throtle? Or something about the wires or something like that... im reallly unsure of what to do
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #6

    Jun 6, 2007, 05:27 PM
    It's not the distributor, per se, at this point. I believe the problem may very well be with the igniter or coil, which are inside the distributor. The igniter (Ignition Control Module), particularly, is a very problematic component. Here's what it looks like:

    Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

    Here's how to replace it yourself:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    Do a search on this site and see how many people's problems have been solved by replacing this component.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #7

    Jun 6, 2007, 05:31 PM
    Run through the diagnostic steps listed in sections A and B below, if you want:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html
    sal_salem's Avatar
    sal_salem Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #8

    Jun 6, 2007, 05:50 PM
    So your saying both the coil and igniter are inside the distributor? Because to replace them alone is quite a bit expensive, I'd be better off to replace the whole distributor, it would be much cheaper for me that way. So if I replace the distributor, would it contain both the coil and igniter inside of them already? Please let me know, thanks.
    sal_salem's Avatar
    sal_salem Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #9

    Jun 6, 2007, 05:53 PM
    Could the problem be something with the air intake? Or oxygen censor? Or are you positively sure it's the coil and igniter?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #10

    Jun 6, 2007, 06:01 PM
    If you change your air filter regularly (i.e. every 24,000 miles), you should be able to rule air intake out. It could be from a bad oxygen sensor, that's why it would be good to check for any codes with a scan tool. AutoZone will do this for free.

    It's difficult to "pinpoint" the exact source of the problem from afar. Therefore, I can't be positive that I'm right. If you plan on keeping the car and you haven't replaced the igniter and coil, my experience is that it's a good thing to do. Again, these are very problematic components on Hondas.

    I know money doesn't grow on trees, so you need to go with your gut. Maybe others will chime in and you can assess their thoughts.
    sal_salem's Avatar
    sal_salem Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #11

    Jun 6, 2007, 06:05 PM
    I see, yea I am planing on keeping the car, but I live in canada, and I don't know of any places that would do a code check for free... the only place that does it, charges 40 dollars, and I was going to do that sometime next week... but if I do a code check, then they should tell me what the exact problem is right?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #12

    Jun 6, 2007, 06:07 PM
    You only want to use NGK spark plugs on Hondas.
    sal_salem's Avatar
    sal_salem Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #13

    Jun 6, 2007, 06:24 PM
    Alrite I will do what I can, thanks a lot for the help bro, its much appreciated.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #14

    Jun 6, 2007, 06:25 PM
    For $40, you can almost buy your own scan tool. Sometimes, a certain code will tell you exactly what's wrong; other times, they just send you in the general direction of what's wrong. It's an art-science, where experience is still a big part of it. Good luck.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

92 honda accord hard to start when cold [ 20 Answers ]

Hi: I'm having a problem with my honda ,when I start it on the morning ,when is cold the car crank and start but stop after a second and then I started it again and I have to depress the gas to keep it running and the rpm goes up and down from 700 to 2000 rpm and I have to keep holding the gas...

1986 Honda Accord LX/1996 Honda Accord LX [ 12 Answers ]

Would someone be able to tell me if the wheels on an 1986 Honda Accord are interchangeable with those of a 1996 Honda Accord. Thank you

1990 Honda Accord, cold starting problems [ 1 Answers ]

Full tune just performed. Now vehicle will crank but not start when engine is cold. After maybe five attempts, vehicle will start but is very "sluggish" (idle revs up and down sporadically). Check engine stays on and within 30 seconds the "S" light blinks. This happens about 95% of all cold...

96 honda accord won't start when cold [ 1 Answers ]

When my 96 honda accord sits outside overnight when it is below 40 degrees or so it won't start right away. I crank the key for a long time and it finally starts after a long time. The battery almost dies. The car runs great as soon as it starts. The battery is good and it is getting good...


View more questions Search