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nervous · Apr 16, 2005, 02:05 PM

I have pulled my toilet up and what I found confuses me and I am unsure how to proceed. This is complicated to explain and if anyone would like pics I'd gladly send them.

First, the old flange/joint was like this: looking from the bathroom floor down there was a flange/collar attached tp a sleeve of lead (approx 5" lone). This lead sleeve slipped into a larger 4" lead sleeve. That larger lead sleeve is about 8"-9" long and mates to the cast iron 4" drain, a 90* to the main stack. (Also, this 90# bends at slightly less than level the wrong way, away from the main stack, not sloping into it.) It also appears that the larger, 4" lead sleeve was peened over on the floor indicative of an older style install.

1) would I now be best served to pull that 4" lead sleeve, the lead joint at the cast iron and the associated oakum out and move to fresh 4" PVC, using a donut to seal that joint? If I reuse the 4" lead flange as attached how do I seal it againse a new flange and the floor as detailed next?

The floor under the toilet needs to be patched with some new 3/4" ply prior to installing an additional 3/8" subfloor and 1/4" lauan before any new flange can be installed

2) does the final finished flange sit on TOP of all three layers of flooring, or level to the finished floor? Or can I do the 3/4" replacement piece (subfloor)and 3/8" overlay, install the flange and do the 1/4" lauan and linoleum later with no problems?

Lastly, the roughin distance is at 15" now since that's where the cast iron comes up and that's as far back as I can go due to a floor joist. My toilet is a 12" rough-in spec (with the available 14" adaptor).

3) How dumb is this going to look all finished?

Right now I am looking at a sleeve of lead that can't be stretched up enough to accommodate the new and needed 3/8, 1/4 and finish flooring material. The top edge of this lead sleeve is pretty beat up so I am not sure how sealable it will be.

I have access to everything from the cellar below.

Thanks in advance as I am a bit stuck right now. HELP PLEASE!!

nervous · Apr 17, 2005, 01:36 PM

I pulled the cast iron and installed PVC. Stay tuned...

MAXABC12 · May 29, 2007, 01:53 PM

How Can I Disconnect A Lead Pipe From Cast Iron Pipe And
How Can I Connect Pvc Pipe To Cast Iron Pipe

MAXABC12 · May 29, 2007, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by nervous

I have pulled my toilet up and what I found confuses me and I am unsure how to proceed. This is complicated to explain and if anyone would like pics I'd gladly send them.

First, the old flange/joint was like this: looking from the bathroom floor down there was a flange/collar attached tp a sleeve of lead (approx 5" lone). This lead sleeve slipped into a larger 4" lead sleeve. That larger lead sleeve is about 8"-9" long and mates to the cast iron 4" drain, a 90* to the main stack. (Also, this 90# bends at slightly less than level the wrong way, away from the main stack, not sloping into it.) It also appears that the larger, 4" lead sleeve was peened over on the floor indicative of an older style install.

1) would I now be best served to pull that 4" lead sleeve, the lead joint at the cast iron and the associated oakum out and move to fresh 4" PVC, using a donut to seal that joint? If I reuse the 4" lead flange as attached how do I seal it againse a new flange and the floor as detailed next?

The floor under the toilet needs to be patched with some new 3/4" ply prior to installing an additional 3/8" subfloor and 1/4" lauan before any new flange can be installed

2) does the final finished flange sit on TOP of all three layers of flooring, or level to the finished floor? or can I do the 3/4" replacement piece (subfloor)and 3/8" overlay, install the flange and do the 1/4" lauan and linoleum later with no problems?

Lastly, the roughin distance is at 15" now since thats where the cast iron comes up and that's as far back as I can go due to a floor joist. My toilet is a 12" rough-in spec (with the available 14" adaptor).

3) How dumb is this going to look all finished?

Right now I am looking at a sleeve of lead that can't be stretched up enough to accomodate the new and needed 3/8, 1/4 and finish flooring material. The top edge of this lead sleeve is pretty beat up so I am not sure how sealable it will be.

I have access to everything from the cellar below.

Thanks in advance as I am a bit stuck right now. HELP PLEASE!!!

For entring the cast iron bell,use a rubber "DONUT"just slips in place ;no lead req'd.
To remove the existing lead,use a long drill bit and "SWISS-CHEESE"the joint until you can pry the lead and oakum out.