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honderman · May 5, 2007, 12:55 PM

I have a Honda Civic with 1.5 engine.
Car turns over but acts like there is no fuel.
I have pulled the rear seat exposing the fuel pump but can not hear it engage when key is turned on.

Auto shop diagnosed the issue as ECU which was replaced without solving the issue.

How do I check the fuel pump before buying a replacement and wasting money?
:)

TxGreaseMonkey · May 5, 2007, 03:28 PM

1. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

2. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

3. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.

4. Perform the K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure.

Let me know the results.

honderman · May 5, 2007, 05:45 PM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

1. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

2. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

3. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.

4. Perform the K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure.

Let me know the results.

Thanks for the fast reply- I had started checking the fuses, good. I could then only hear 1 click with key on the main relay, replaced- and replaced the ecu based on the recommendation of the shop that did the original diagnosis.

Car still turns over, I can't hear clicks from main relay but also still can't hear fuel pump kick in- result same-- turns over no start. Removed fuel line from filter- drips very little fuel (it is elevated and not under pressure so I don't know if relevant or not.

Should I give up and take it to shop? (A different one)?

Thanks

honderman · May 5, 2007, 05:49 PM

When I engage the key to 2nd position trunk all lights illuminate and remain lit including the cel and battery etc.

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

1. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

2. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

3. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.

4. Perform the K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure.

Let me know the results.

TxGreaseMonkey · May 5, 2007, 06:02 PM

When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), the Check Engine Light (CEL) doesn't come on and then go off after 2 seconds? Therefore, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.