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    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #1

    Sep 10, 2013, 04:18 PM
    Cut copper water line for push-on fitting.
    I need to cut a 1/2" copper water line and will be putting a 90 deg push-on fitting to extend the line.

    Looks like it was bent a little to line up with a brick mortar joint.

    It seems there is a slight bend where I need to make the cut.
    I have very little play as to where the cut is made. The 90 deg fitting has to aim between the wall and the brick.

    Should I try to straighten before I make the cut ?

    Once it is cut is there a tool to get it perfectly round again ?

    Would appreciate some advice and suggestions.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #2

    Sep 10, 2013, 04:27 PM
    Hi Dannac

    If you could post a picture it would help tons!

    If no picture can be posted, then I would suggest that you try to straighten the pipe (may be SOFT copper tubing) a bit... see if that straightens things out a bit. If satisfactory, cut the pipe using a mini. Pipe cutter (will help round things up a bit more) and see how you make out. You may want to cut the pipe higher than needed at first and then pull the pipe away from the wall and make the final cut... should help a bit.

    If the tubing is rigid copper tubing and will not straighten out in any way then things get tougher (posting pic. Here will be important).

    Back to you...

    Mark
    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #3

    Sep 11, 2013, 04:23 AM


    Think that would cause a problem for the push-on fitting ?

    Thanks for your reply.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #4

    Sep 12, 2013, 05:24 AM
    Hi Dannac

    By the picture there I have to say that it is questionable and I don't want to make suggestions that could get you deeper into trouble here.

    Can you tell me exactly why you are doing this work? Is the old valve defective? Have you tried to repair the old valve? Let me know more.

    Mark
    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #5

    Sep 12, 2013, 06:31 AM
    We bought this place about a year ago.

    The old valve no longer works... the handle just turns. We use the little gold shut-off valve which you can see.

    I figured beings I had to change it, I would also move it approx 10' right to get it out from under a little patio area.

    I've already removed bricks at 3 other locations.

    I was going to put a 90 deg push-on fitting on that pipe in the picture.
    Pass a flexible pex pipe between the wall and the brick.
    Then put another 90 deg push-on fitting on the other end to come out for the new
    Ball valve faucet.

    Thanks for the reply.
    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #6

    Sep 12, 2013, 06:56 AM
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #7

    Sep 12, 2013, 03:47 PM
    OK, two options here:

    1) Hold the pipe firmly in the wall and try to bend the pipe straight. The tubing looks like soft copper so it should bend easily. After you bend the tubing straight, cut it using a mini. Tubing cutter for a good straight/clean cut and then try to put the push-fit fitting on... hopefully works fine for you.

    2) If that fails to work then you can cut the pipe below the elbow joint in the wall (using same mini. Tubing cutter), clean the pipe well and then install a new push fit 90 there. Install another push fit 90 and off you are with your new PEX tubing... ;)

    Mark
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    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #8

    Sep 13, 2013, 02:54 AM
    Thanks Mark, your advice is relieving the thought that I bit off more than I can chew.

    I will carefully try to get it a little straighter.

    Make cut and before putting push-fit fitting I will test for roundness with a normal 1/2" coupling.

    If not round ... could I use pliers to gently/slowly try and get the roundness ... and keep testing with 1/2" coupling ?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #9

    Sep 13, 2013, 06:46 AM
    Get the pipe straighter and you should be all set here as long as you cut the pipe with a mini. Tubing cutter (makes the pipe round). If you think the pliers are needed, then try them... can't hurt and if all else fails you can cut just below the elbow and start from there.
    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #10

    Sep 13, 2013, 06:53 AM
    Thanks all your help and advice... I'll get it done tomorrow.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #11

    Sep 13, 2013, 07:08 AM
    Let me know how you make out!
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #12

    Sep 13, 2013, 08:39 AM
    First, I certainly don't want to interfere with Marks advice here.
    Second, things are a little slow for me right now.
    Third, I'm one really weird guy.

    I have been following your problem and if it were me I would just cut off the 90 and repipe. But I got to thinking, if I had to straighten out a piece of copper how would I do it.
    If the pipe is bent you can probably straighten the end of it by driving on a fitting. I would use a tee. Using a tee rather than a coupling would give you a longer fitting to grip with you pliers as you try to turn it, and to pull it off. You wouldn't have to grip it as hard and wouldn't be putting pressure on the pipe it self. Once you get it started you can probably drive it on and straighten out the pipe. The problem will be that if the pipe is bent it is also most certainly out of round or egg shaped.
    So how do you reshape an egged shaped pipe? Like I said it's a slow day. Went out to the shed, got a piece of 1/2 rigid copper, a tee and my tubing cutter.
    Put the end of the pipe in a vice and squeezed it making it egg shaped. Now I didn't just egg it a little bit, I distorted enough for this to be a good test.
    I then took the cutting wheel out of my tubing cutter. Put the tubing cutter on high side of the end of the pipe, tighten slightly, went around a couple of times. Tighten the cutter a little more and went around a few more times. Repeated again and the pipe was then round enough for the tee slide on.

    As I said, it's a slow day.
    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #13

    Sep 13, 2013, 08:57 AM
    hkstroud... thanks for the additional info.

    I surely see your point about using a tee (which I do have) instead of the coupling.
    Good tip.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #14

    Sep 13, 2013, 09:15 AM
    My main point is that by removing the cutter wheel of your tubing cutter, it becomes a vice which you can use to reshape the pipe. As you go around it presses down the high points, therefore pressing out the low points. A lot better than trying to squeeze down the high points with your pliers.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #15

    Sep 13, 2013, 10:59 AM
    Never an interference, Harold... actually, the same advice I gave Dannac in post #7 and #9 (except I suggested the mini. Tubing cutter). Always a pleasure!
    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #16

    Sep 13, 2013, 11:45 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ;
    remove the cutting wheel
    Ha!. had not caught that part with your first post.

    Thanks guys.
    dannac's Avatar
    dannac Posts: 267, Reputation: 9
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    #17

    Sep 16, 2013, 04:42 PM
    @massplumber2008

    Letting you know it worked out OK.

    Again, thanks for all the advice.
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,006, Reputation: 251
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    #18

    Sep 17, 2013, 10:30 AM
    Hello Dannac,

    Thanks for the update Mark and Harold are life saver Thanks to them for the good advices.

    John
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #19

    Sep 17, 2013, 03:58 PM
    Thanks for the update, Dannac, and thank you John... we appreciate your help over the years as well!

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