[DIY novice]

I would like to put drywall up on my basement walls, my home was built in 1942. It has cinderblock walls. I did major repair on them, filling gaps and cracks. I have covered them with waterproof paint, I had seepage from the ground level so I had an internal drainage system installed around the perimeter to eliminate this. The company that installed it suggested that I not attach the 2x4 framing to the wall with nails to avoid creating any "holes" for water to find it's way into. What type of adhesive would I use to attach the framing? Should I put the rigid foam insulation up first then the framing over it? Never tacked a project like this before. Can I have some suggestions please?

[ma0641]

Most framers would make a bottom plate of PT lumber, a standard 16 or 24" wall with a top plate, glue the lower plate and /or anchors and nail the top plate to the ceiling joists. Nail rigid foam to the rear side as a vapor barrier and use regular fiberglass in the stud spaces. Space off the wall by 2". Block walls are too porous for nailing to.

[creahands]

Using metal studding would not require exact cutting. This will make installing S/R easier also.

If you have a moisture problem it would be best not to use fiberglass insulation. It will hold moisture and create mold.

Chuck

[joypulv]

This Old House has a good way (but of course it's expensive).
Do above suggestion but use Great Stuff foam behind each stud. The theory I think is that rigid foam won't conform exactly. I took 45 year old walls out of a basement and a gazillion flat bugs scurried away. They live between the wood and the concrete as long as there is space. I would not even build walls in a basement built in 1942, no matter what you had done to it, for at least a year, while you observe it's ability to stay dry, and do a moisture test with a square of plastic.
Waterproof paint doesn't last long. Hydrostatic pressure is too great.
Drainage under doesn't solve all dampness problems.
Concrete is porous!