[kenjohnson1993]

Replaced the main relay and had the car running good, I had the car running before that with jumper wire from post 5 to post 7, came back 3 days later to replace master brake cylinder, car would not start. Again no power to post seven. I jumped it again and still no start. I install old relay and jumped it again no start. I have fuel pressure with jumper wire, I have spark. But it seem like I have no injector pulse.

[smoothy]

What codes is your computer flashing?

[kenjohnson1993]

How do I pull codes

[smoothy]

'93 is ODB1...

Next post explains them.

[smoothy]

---------------------------------How to check your CEL code----------------------------------
On the passenger side of your car, under the dash beneath the glove box, you will find a green cover above the kickpanel that houses a blue connector that has two wires.

All that you need to do is turn the ignition off, and using the piece of wire or paperclip, jump the blue connector so that you connect the two wires together. Basically stick one end of the paperclip or piece of wire into one prong on the connector and stick the other end of the paperclip or wire into the other prong.

Once you have done this, turn the key to the IGN position and watch your CEL light. It will illuminate in a series of flashes.

You will notice that there will be LONG flashes and SHORT flashes. All of the ECU trouble codes are two-digits. LONG flashes determine the TENS digit by the number of times it flashes, and SHORT flashes determine the ONES digit by the number of times it flashes.

i.e.. LONG-LONG-LONG-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-PAUSE

Is the trouble code: 34

3 LONG flashes followed by 4 short flashes, then a long pause. If that is the only code the ECU is throwing, then the code will simply repeat until you remove the key. If, however there are more than one ECU error code, then you will see a different series of flashes followed by the long pause. Once all the ECU codes have been displayed, they will continuously cycle until you remove the key.

i.e.. LONG-LONG-SHORT-PAUSE-LONG-LONG-LONG-LONG-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-PAUSE

Is the trouble code: 21 and 43


OBD1 Trouble Codes:

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system

[kenjohnson1993]

I put jumper wire in, cel came on and just stayed on, no blinks

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the ECM is likely shot. You can confirm this by performing the K-Test on the ECM--search AMHD archives. If the ECM is toast, remove the old one and get an exact Honda Part No. match--shop price and warranty.

[kenjohnson1993]

If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the ECM is likely shot. You can confirm this by performing the K-Test on the ECM--search AMHD archives. If the ECM is toast, remove the old one and get an exact Honda Part No. match--shop price and warranty.

OK so I was test out main relay again and the car started running again... I think bad connection on relay, and it gave me code 6.

[kenjohnson1993]

OK so I was test out main relay again and the car started running again... I think bad connection on relay, and it gave me code 6.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Does the CEL often stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

. What were the results of the K-Test?

I suspect the ECM is intermittently failing--the ECM grounds through main relay Terminal 8 (computer controlled grounding terminal to the second relay in the main relay, which controls power to the fuel pump). Your main relay is fine. Installing a new ECM should solve your problem. Spray the main ECM connector with WD-40, prior to plugging it into the new ECM. In 40 minutes your car can be back on the road again.

[smoothy]

In addition to what TxGreaseMonkey said, due to the age of the car... I'd recommend working through the harness plugs one at a tile spraying then with electrical contact cleaner while unplugged immediately plug and unplug them several times before they dry, then coat with electrical dielectric grease.

Has solved more than a few intermittent electrical gremlins for me over the years... the contact cleaner helps clan the corrosion and gunk.. and the dielectric grease helps prevent new corrosion from occurring for some time.

And I own and drive 4 antique cars, driving at least one of them every day.

[kenjohnson1993]

. Does the CEL often stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

. What were the results of the K-Test?

I suspect the ECM is intermittently failing--the ECM grounds through main relay Terminal 8 (computer controlled grounding terminal to the second relay in the main relay, which controls power to the fuel pump). Your main relay is fine. Installing a new ECM will solve your problem. Spray the main ECM connector with WD-40, prior to plugging it into the new ECM. In 40 minutes your car can be back on the road again.

It passed the K-test. Going to replace ecm anyway

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Make sure you clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing, with abrasive cloth--look for a 3-wire brass connector.