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tableclocks · Jan 3, 2013, 12:11 PM

Becket oil furnace... I put on a new transformer... because I had very small or no spark... I did the draw test on the transfor at the springs... with the transformer in place and still wired.. when I took the transformer out.. it tesed v good.. big long spark.. so what else coule it be... thanks... richard

Grady White · Jan 3, 2013, 06:52 PM

I suspect you are getting low incoming voltage to the transformer. Be very careful as not to get shocked but use a voltmeter to check the voltage coming into the transformer. Let me know what reading you get.

tableclocks · Jan 3, 2013, 06:54 PM

I was getting zero comeing from the inighter to the transformer

Grady White · Jan 3, 2013, 07:02 PM

What control is on the burner?

tableclocks · Jan 3, 2013, 07:21 PM

White rodgers 669-443... thanks for helping.. richard

Grady White · Jan 3, 2013, 07:39 PM

Sorry Richard, I can't find that number in any of my catalogs or on White-Rodgers web site.
How many line voltage wires are on the control, what colors, & to what is each connected?
Sorry about so many questions but I have a couple of ideas which may or may not work depending upon the wires available.

tableclocks · Jan 3, 2013, 07:43 PM

Originally Posted by Grady White

Sorry Richard, I can't find that number in any of my catalogs or on White-Rodgers web site.
How many line voltage wires are on the control, what colors, & to what is each connected?
Sorry about so many questions but I have a couple of ideas which may or may not work depending upon the wires available.

Its about 40 yrs old... maybe 30... only control I can find is wr 668-430 or 668-401... colors later... have to tend to wife... blue wire out of the control to the burmer... thanks... richard... I ck with you latter... thank you very much

Grady White · Jan 3, 2013, 07:50 PM

Sounds like you have what is commonly called a 4 wire primary. Black (power in), White (neutral), Orange (burner motor) & Blue (ignition).

Suggestion, shut off the power to the furnace, remove the transformer from the blue wire & connect it along with the motor to the orange wire. Be sure to put a wire nut on the end of the blue wire & tape it for extra safety. Turn the power back on & try the ignition transformer spark test. Let me know.

tableclocks · Jan 3, 2013, 10:34 PM

Sorry... but let me get this stright... disconect the blue and replace it with the orange... leave the blue un hooked and wird nut it..
I'll get to it tomorrow... wife getting test done in the hospital... thank you very much... richard

tableclocks · Jan 4, 2013, 10:17 AM

Can't get to my e amil so I came to this site... ok black and white go into the control... blue comes out n goes to trans... orange goes to motor.. motor is OK runs.. ect... appperinty.. I have no 120 comeing out of the orange.. from the control... if I put the orange wire from the comtrol to the trans.. it should work.. if I do that.. would I just wire nut the blue n not use it ? This furnace is in the outside garage... never on if I an not out there... again.. thanks for your time... richard
Thinking... the comtrol is nothing more then on and off switches for the motor n transformer... worst come to worse... kook up 1 or 2 switches to the motor and transformer?.

Grady White · Jan 4, 2013, 03:53 PM

Originally Posted by tableclocks

thinking....the comtrol is nothing more then on n off switches for the motor n transformer...worst come to worse...kook up 1 or 2 switches to the motor n transformer ?....

DO NOT just wire the motor & transformer through switches. EXTEREMELY DANGEROUS

Disconnect the blue from the transformer.
Cap the blue with a wire nut.
Connect the disconnected transformer wire to orange along with the motor.

tableclocks · Jan 4, 2013, 03:59 PM

I did that... I got a good blue spark... good strong fine mist of oil... like I say good blue spark... adjusted right... but the fuel won't lite... fuel is about 7 or 8 yrs old... looks clean but old... will moustior mix in with the fuel and not burn ? Thank you... richard

Grady White · Jan 4, 2013, 05:17 PM

Originally Posted by tableclocks

i did that...i got a good blue spark...good strong fine mist of oil...like i say good blue spark...adjusted right...but the fuel wont lite...fuel is about 7 or 8 yrs old...looks clean but old...will moustior mix in with the fuel and not burn ? thank you...richard

I doubt the fuel is the problem. Have you installed a new nozzle & do you have the electrodes adjusted properly? You could possibly have the air adjustment wrong. Too rich or too lean will cause ignition failure. What is the make & model of the furnace AND the burner?
A good starting point for the electrode adjustment is: The electrode tips 7/16" above the nozzle center, 1/16" ahead of the nozzle face, & having a gap of 1/8".

tableclocks · Jan 4, 2013, 08:08 PM

Electroldes are perfect... a v good spray but not o good looking cone.. tomorrow I try a new nozzle... its a old mobile home down draft... miller cfm 80... nozzle is.60 deg 80 hollow... no 579 I think... up date u tomorrow... thanks you... richard

tableclocks · Jan 5, 2013, 12:40 PM

Originally Posted by tableclocks

electroldes are perfect...a v good spray but not o good looking cone..tomorrow i try a new nozzle...its a old mobile home down draft...miller cfm 80...nozzle is.60 deg 80 hollow....no 579 i think...up date u tomorrow...thanks you...richard

New nozzel.. furnace works g8.. any proublens with the blue wire nuted at the end? furnace data says a .60.. 80 hollow nozzel... will anything else save me fuel or just give me a better burn ? Its only a furnace in the garage... only on if I am in there.. for safety..
I adjusted the ail flow for the flane with the burner out of the furnace.. at about the mid way point does not look rich or lean.. I suppect a bit lean would be OK ? Thank you v much for your time and in put... richard

Grady White · Jan 5, 2013, 03:14 PM

Strange that a CMF would take a .60x80* Hollow. Every CMF I've ever seen spec'd a solid cone but either way, it 's no big deal. Adjust the air so you just see the occational flame tip above the top of the fiber combustion chamber.
Regarding the blue wire: As long as it has a wire nut on it, you're fine. The relay for that blue wire crapping out was a common problem with that control. I've done dozens the same way I told you.

tableclocks · Jan 7, 2013, 07:59 AM

That is what the data lpate says.. 60... 80 hollow... one more thing please... it takes about 2 1/2 minuets before my fan come on.. its set at on 120 off 90 or so.. hard to see it... but is 2 1/2 to long... sing of a bad heat exchanger?
Thanks.. richard

Grady White · Jan 7, 2013, 08:20 PM

The fan on time seems a bit long but I wouldn't worry about it.
Thinking about that furnace: With it having that particular control & specifing a hollow nozzle, it must be an early CMF.
If you are concerned about a failing heat exchanger, let it go until spring unless you start smelling fumes. Come spring when not having heat for a day or two won't be bad, post back & I'll tell you in detail how to PROPERLY open that furnace up for a good cleaning & inspection.

tableclocks · Jan 7, 2013, 08:42 PM

I SLID THE FAN OFF AND LOOKED INSIDE.. I DID NOT SEE ANY RUST HOLES.. ETC AT ALL... I did notice in the back where the top of the heat exchanger comes through... there was some gaps.. about a inch all around.. I packed it with ko-wool.. thats a real heavy duty insulation... sooooo.. I think its going to OK.. thank you again my friend... richard

Grady White · Jan 8, 2013, 07:15 PM

Richard,
I'm well acquainted with kaowool. I hope those gaps were not in the heat exchanger but simply between the curved radiator & the cabinet. Please post pictures if you can. If you can't get them to post, you can put them on a photo sharing web site such as photobucket & provide a link here.