Check out some similar questions!

speedball1 · Jun 9, 2012, 06:01 PM

Gee! And all these years I always thought that street 90 was a part of the trap because without it you'd have a 2" return bend, I see said the blind man. I thought you were coming off the cast iron with a 90 to line the trap up. Sorry if I misunderstood! Thanks Mark. Tom

mygirlsdad77 · Jun 9, 2012, 06:40 PM

HI jeremy. Hope Im not to late. In your pics, I think I see some rubber where the trap connects to the wye? If so, you are in luck, as your cast iron joints aren't leaded in, they are using a rubber bushing which would mean you can actually just twist and pull the trap out (with a bit of effort). I may be seeing this incorrectly, so let me know, okay? If this is the case, just get the trap out, purchase a new fernco bushing/donut and insert it all back together with the st 45 in the bushing, then the swing of the trap should be enough to get you where you need to be. Hope Im right here. Good luck.

Stratmando · Jun 9, 2012, 06:55 PM

I have to say you have the Best Helping, and you are doing good, I was curious if it is worth it to cut the cast iron "Y" out and install PVC? Does it allow a closer or more accurate position of your drain, does what is mention allow him to do that with the cast Iron "Y"?

mygirlsdad77 · Jun 9, 2012, 07:04 PM

Hey Strat, I understand exactly what you are saying. Definatley going to have to lay the fittings out before doing any cutting to see if he has room to make this work without cutting the wye out. Hard to say without knowing exactly the room he has. Good call though, it really may come down to that. Lets hope not, as it looks like it would require some more breaking of the concrete. Of course, at this stage in the game, a little more work may be the way to go.

jeremycrussell · Jun 9, 2012, 10:48 PM

Wow, this thread lit up... Ok, to address some of the stuff in the thread.

I didn't get a 90 with the trap... after you said to use the 90 with the trap, I thought when I grabbed the trap out of the bin, I missed a piece, so I was going to head back to the store tomorrow, but, perhaps it didn't come with a 90, do I need to get one? Also, I didn't notice this until I got home, but the trap has a place for a drain plug in the bottom, should I have got a trap without this, or just plug it?

Next, in the picture that isn't a 90, that's actually the 45 dry fitted to the trap, just in case that's caused confusion.

Last, yes, the fittings around the cast iron wye are rubber, and yes, it would take some more floor removal to completely expose the wye.

speedball1 · Jun 10, 2012, 06:33 AM

OK! First off the "P" trap and the 90'

I didn't get a 90 with the trap... after you said to use the 90 with the trap, I thought when I grabbed the trap out of the bin, I missed a piece, so I was going to head back to the store tomorrow, but, perhaps it didn't come with a 90, do I need to get one?

Don't feel bad. This confused me too. Since the street 90 is a integral part of the trap I thought the same as you and gave Mark a hard time of it until he explained what he meant. Go back and read the posts between Mark and myself. If it were me I'd leave the wye alone. This is a simple operation, let's not get it all complicated. Mark thinks the trap will swing enough to make it over to the plumb bob but I have my doubts. So now you have options. You can cut on his mark and see if the trap will swing enough and if it doesn't make it you can follow my instructions and cut farther back and use the 45r. Good luck and I'm sorry about the trap and 90 confusion. Tom

massplumber2008 · Jun 10, 2012, 02:00 PM

Hi Jeremy

Yeah, the trap came with a 90 (street 90) so you definitely need to get that AND you would be best to get a Ptrap WITHOUT the cleanout as it will never get used and it can actually catch hair/soap scum, so get a new Ptrap without cleanout.. including the street 90.

In terms of MGD77's suggestion of just twisting out the old cast iron trap... you can do that, but I have a feeling that inserting the new donut and new piece of pipe/fitting may be a hassle for you in such a tight space so I'm still recommending that you make the cut on the old Ptrap like I showed you in the image.

Clean all up real well and then dry fit everything. As Tom said, I think you can do this without the 45, but if needed the 45 is more than acceptable here!

That's my input... sorry if I added any confusion to the thread!

Mark

jeremycrussell · Jun 10, 2012, 02:23 PM

Ok, I'm about to cut of the old trap and see if we can get this to fit. I went and got a new trap, without and plug, and including the 90. I couldn't even find what I ended up with yesterday, so I don't know.

One more question, how do I connect the 90 hub to the cast iron with the fernco? Am I going to have a small piece of pip welded into the 90 hub that the fernco fits over?

massplumber2008 · Jun 10, 2012, 02:26 PM

Yeah, cut a 2" piece of 2" PVC pipe and dry fit (for now) it into the 90... fernco will fit over the pipe. Later, if all lines up right you can prime/cement everything.

jeremycrussell · Jun 10, 2012, 05:19 PM

Ok, Here is some pics of the dry fitting, without the 45 when I swivel the bend it's a little too far from the place it needs to be, however, adding the 45 and fitted this way, the plumb bob is dead down the center of the vertical pipe.

However, this looks pretty tweaked, is this what it should look like and will this work?

massplumber2008 · Jun 10, 2012, 05:35 PM

Looks perfect to me... :) Prime/cement it up... just be sure to double check your measures... only get one shot at it!

mygirlsdad77 · Jun 11, 2012, 03:26 PM

Yep, looks perfect to me too. Good job. Now, just remember to wrap the standpipe with something (carboard, etc, or even put a coffee can around it, Great Idea from Mark) so you have room for your shower drain and so that the standpipe isn't poured directly in concrete. You want anywhere from an inch to a couple inches all the way around the standpipe. Looks like your all set.

Stratmando · Jun 11, 2012, 07:14 PM

While those walls are off, consider TV, tel, Coax Camera, Intercomm, Alarm, speakers, etc... before you put up drywall, it doesn't get easier or cheaper than now.

jeremycrussell · Jun 11, 2012, 08:43 PM

Ok... I did it... It actually was much simpler than I figured it would be, I didn't realize that you could spin that trap around like that, I figured it all needed to be inline. Anyhow, I measured twice, test fit the pan, measured twice again, marked the pvc anfd glued it up. It sets in there great, got the concrete up and I'm happy to be done with this part!

I picked up a brass drain that has the rubber seal inside it. I'm assuming this is the way to go, hook it up to the pan, and it slides down onto the vertical pipe. With that in mind, where do I need to cut vertical pipe, I'm been doing this with the assumption that the pipe is either flush with the floor, or above it a small bit. I think I have enough space to cut it below the floor if needed, but it would be a pain... Probably a question I should have asked before... you live and learn.

I found the properly sized box and put it in there... The enclosure asked for a minimum of 6 inches, I've also noticed on new houses some have rather holes around them, so I figured 6 inches would be good.

Thanks for all the help thus far... I've learned a lot to add to my repertoire!

Stratmando · Jun 12, 2012, 05:52 AM

You have done better than many Plumbers? I have seen.

jeremycrussell · Jun 13, 2012, 08:19 AM

Got the enclosure in, The rough in for the old shower was an inch bigger than it needed to be, I assume to allow for drywall. So I had to add some material to bring it to the right size.. But it worked!

Thanks again for all the help! The drain, drains great! I've been intimidated by this project for a long time now. I'm indeed thankful for the help I got to get it done.

speedball1 · Jun 13, 2012, 08:25 AM

Hey! Looking good! Kudos and congrats for a job well done. Tom