[jeremycrussell]

Greetings,

I'm looking for some ideas on the best way to handle moving a shower drain. House was built in early 70's, we are remodeling the master bath and replacing the shower as it was leaking pretty bad, it was a custom tile shower and we are trying to replace with a 2 piece fiberglass insert with benches. The insert is the same size as the old shower 48x34. The problem is that the insert is a center drain but the original shower was not a center drain, its about 6 inches to the right (towards the piping) of center. The drain is also kind of strange... it looks like it's a big 7 inch steel pip in the floor (like the toilet drains) with a plate welded to it with a short piece of 2 inch pipe threaded into the center of it.

We are simply trying to get the bathroom fixed so we can move out, so nothing fancy needed at all, simplest, least expensive way to do this, but done right.

I'm scared of what I would find if I took out the slab and how much I would have to do to get it working. I'm kind of wondering about a platform install... but, don't it to be a problem for future owners.

Any and all suggestions welcome! Thanks in advance.

[Stratmando]

I bet a good Craftsman/Tile Person, could use the Enclosure and have Tile Floor, leaving the Drain alone?
I can't see it, someone may?

[speedball1]

Platform or a tile base with plastic enclosure? I don't like either one. What I would do is take up the slab and move the stub up.( you won't be using the old drain since the new base will have one of its own.) you can then patch the slab and install your shower. Good luck, Tom

[jeremycrussell]

Tom, I agree, after doing a lot more reading, I would definitely like to just throw down a platform, but I've been remodeling this house for far too long to do a hack job at the end. I'm attaching some pics of this. Also, some more info, the sewer exit from the house about 2 feet from this drain, the left wall in the photos is the house's original exterior wall and where the pipe comes out of, so I'm assuming this drain goes right into the that exit. Looking at photos on the internet and books, etc... I can't find anything that looks like what I have here, so, any thoughts on what I might expect to find when I go to chopping out the slab. How big a can of worms will I be opening?

[speedball1]

Tom, I agree, after doing a lot more reading, I would definitely like to just throw down a platform, but I've been remodeling this house for far too long to do a hack job at the end. I'm attaching some pics of this. Also, some more info, the sewer exit from the house about 2 feet from this drain, the left wall in the photos is the house's original exterior wall and where the pipe comes out of, so I'm assuming this drain goes right into the that exit. Looking at photos on the internet and books, etc... I can't find anything that looks like what I have here, so, any thoughts on what I might expect to find when I go to chopping out the slab. How big a can of worms will I be opening?

What you have is a flange type shower drain, (see image) This is used in tile floors and will be discarded as you will get a new drain with your new shower base and enclosure. What's go you spooked? If you wish I can walk you through this. I expect that your pipes are cast iron. We'll cut back and transition to PVC for the new drain line. If you demo the slab and keep sending me pictures we can sail right through moving the drain. It don't even take a lot of plumbing smarts, This is what I'd call a easy job. The hardest part will be breaking up the slab. Just hang in there and sen me a picture of what's under the slab and we'll start a material list. Regards, Tom

[jeremycrussell]

Ok, Ya, I'm already am feeling a lot more comfortable after reading through our walk-throughs for other folks on other threads :).

I plan to start tearing out the slab in a couple days, will post some pics after I get it all cut out. Thanks again for the help... I already feel a lot more equipped to tackle this.

[speedball1]

I'll keep this thread open. Go for it! Good luck, Tom

[jeremycrussell]

Ok, got the drain dug up, going to attach some pictures, let me know if a better angle is needed to get a good luck. The plumb bob is where the new drain is need to be placed for the pan...

Also, the enclosure didn't come with a drain kit, so, what should I get for that? Should I look at one of the glueless types?

[speedball1]

OK! I'm assuming the drain line's cast iron. That will have to be cut with a Saws-All. Saw,
I can't tell you exactly where to make the cut but if I were doing it I'd take a 2" street 45 degree PVC elbo, Line it up on the drain line and mover it back until it pointed directly at the plumb bob. That will b e your cut. Remember measure twice and saw once. You will need.
A 2" Fernco Shielded Metal coupling, a 2" PVC street 45, 1' of 2" Pvc pipe,( for the raiser) and a 2" PVC "P" trap, You will also need PVC cement and primer.
What do your shower base instructions say about the drain? Do they suggest bedding the shower floor? Can you give me a link to that instruction sheet. Surely they must have addressed the fact that they didn't furnish a drain with your unit, Let me know when you have the materials. Tom

[jeremycrussell]

Tom, thanks for the speedy reply! Ok, here's the link to the insert I have. Aquatic Bathware - Aquatic Bath: Everyday Bathroom

They say to bed is with Plaster of Paris?? But I would think thinset is the better option, your reocmmendation?

Ok, on the drain line, I'm not real clear. Are you saying that I set the 45 where the current trap comes into the wye? Also, you are correct, it is cast iron. The current riser is black PVC, but the P-trap and everything else is cast iron.

Thanks again!

[speedball1]

When I went to your shower website it told me that a Brass shower drain was included, Did it not come with the shower?

I'm not real clear. Are you saying that I set the 45 where the current trap comes into the wye?

What part of this don't you understand? Where to place the 45? How to place the 45?
Take a 2" street 45 degree PVC elbo, Line it up on the drain line and mover it back until it pointed directly at the plumb bob. That will b e your cut.
One more time. Place the hub of the 45 next to the trap and over the cast iron pipe. Line up the street end exactly with the run of the CI pipe. Now carefully move the 45 back until the center of the hub's in line with the plumb bob. The street end marks the spot where you will make your cut. Does that explain it better?

They say to bed is with Plaster of Paris?? But I would think thinset is the better option, your reocmmendation?

We have used cement to bed our floors.
Let me know how you're coming along. And check on that brass drain they say they furnish. Tom

[jeremycrussell]

Ok, sorry for being thick headed... I was first visualizing pointing the 45 towards the plumb bob, I *think* I'm getting the picture a little better, but I may still be off. I'm attaching a pic of how I have the 45 laid on the drain. If I'm understanding this correctly, are we essentially just trying to swivel the drain over to where it needs to be located?

Again, sorry for being thick headed.. I'm having a hard time visualizing how this fits.

Also, on the drain, apparently that's an optional thing and wasn't included. So I'm assuming I can just pick up a brass drain and that be good.

Thanks a bunch for your patience with me.

[parttime]

Hi Jeremy, I've been watching your progress, you've got a good project going. I'm curious as to how tall the current pvc riser is? Tom, could he cut in there instead of the ci?

[massplumber2008]

The offset appears like it is too far to utilize the vertical pipe, so I'd remove the trap here.

Cut the trap out first (see image on where to cut)... use a bimetal sawzall blade, or even quicker, purchase a diamond sawzall blade (quickest cut) for the cut, or you could also cut straight down using a metal cutting wheel on a grinder (wear goggles here).

Clean the area you will cut first or the blade won't last long.

After you cut the pipe install the shielded clamp and dry fit (fit, but don't cement fittings together) the Ptrap to start... may or may not need a 45 degree fitting. Use the 90 that came with the trap!!

Swing the trap and see how it all lines up. Post a picture as you go, OK?

Good luck!

Mark

[speedball1]

Use the 90 that came with the trap!

What 90 that came with the trap" Any trap I ever bought was just that, A trap. When did they start add 90's to a trap and why?
Mark, You set him up ton use a 90 instead of a 45. Is there a reason for this? If I have a choice between using a 90 and a 45 in a drainage line I'm going to go with a 45. Don't you agree? Regards, Tom

[massplumber2008]

I set him up to use the 90 that came with the trap, Tom... ;)

I said, "After you cut the pipe install the shielded clamp and dry fit (fit, but don't cement fittings together) the Ptrap to start... may or may not need a 45 degree fitting. Use the 90 that came with the trap! "

He may want to fit the Ptrap and then use 45s to offset the vertical pipe to final position, if needed.

:)

[speedball1]

Hi Jeremy, I've been watching your progress, you've got a good project going. I'm curious as to how tall the current pvc riser is?? Tom, could he cut in there instead of the ci?

No! The raiser is 6" out of line. Regards, Tom

[speedball1]

So now when you buy a trap they pack you with a 90 along with the trap?> Is there a reason for this outside of extra profit" Which brings me back to why use a 90 in drainage when you can use a 45? You're not even recommendinga short sweep. What am I missing here? Regards, Tom

[speedball1]

Ok, sorry for being thick headed... I was first visualizing pointing the 45 towards the plumb bob, I *think* i'm getting the picture a little better, but I may still be off. I'm attaching a pic of how I have the 45 laid on the drain. If I'm understanding this correctly, are we essentially just trying to swivel the drain over to where it needs to be located?

Again, sorry for being thick headed.. I'm having a hard time visualizing how this fits.

Also, on the drain, apparently that's an optional thing and wasn't included. So I'm assuming I can just pick up a brass drain and that be good.

Thanks a bunch for your patience with me.

On the bottom picture . The 45 is laying correctly, After lining the fitting up on the pipe. Slide the 45 back until the center of the hub points directly at the plumb bob. That will be your cut if you use a 45.
Mark gave you the simplest way but I don't like to use 90's in drain lines. It's Just the way my Dad taught me, Cheers, Tom

[massplumber2008]

Tom, did you see this (see first image)?

Now do you understand why I said to "Use the 90 that came with the trap.. all ptraps come with 90s?! (see image).