Can I add second Pressure Tank after House Filter?
We currently have a pressure tank that the output line then feeds a series of filters -- first goes to a 30 micron whole house filter, then water softener, then 15 micron filter, then UV light and then to the rest of the house. We have an odor in the water, so I replaced the 15 micron filter with a carbon (0.05 micron) filter. This got rid of the odor however, because of density of the filter, the water pressure dropped significantly during showering or if you were running the sink and someone else in the house flushed a toilet.
Is it possible to add a second pressure tank after the UV light (the last step in filtering the water) so that we can have the carbon filter and water pressure?
Here's a YouTube link of the setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVZD1xk0pyY
You could do it, but I'm not sure you'd be satisfied. For a very few minutes in the shower, the pressure would be better. But that would not last long, and then you would have what you have now. That's because what you really have is a volume problem. The carbon filter will only allow a set volume of water to pass through at the pressure you are using. You notice it as low pressure, but it's really, as I said, a volume problem.
Have you considered adding a second carbon filter? You would come off a T in the line. One branch would go to one filter, and the second to the other. You would then tie the outputs back together. That might solve your volume problem by cutting in half the amount of water expected to go to each filter.
You might also want to raise the cutin/cutout points of the pump. The one thing I did not see in your video was a pressure gauge, but I might have missed it. If you don't have one, you really should get one at some point. In the meantime, use a tire gauge on the airvalve on your tank to see what the pressure is once the pump turns off. Get back to us with that.
I can see it working with a 80 gallon galvanized pressure tank.
As jlisenbe pointed out you would lose volume on a bladder tank . However with a 80 gallon pressure tank you would have both pressure and volume to work with. What's your pleasure? Tom
You might also want to raise the cutin/cutout points of the pump.
That can be done, but per the water softener it's at the max recommended pressure for the unit.
The one thing I did not see in your video was a pressure gauge, but I might have missed it. If you don't have one, you really should get one at some point. In the meantime, use a tire gauge on the airvalve on your tank to see what the pressure is once the pump turns off. Get back to us with that.
You're correct; no gauge but I can get back to you all on that.
Have you considered adding a second carbon filter? You would come off a T in the line. One branch would go to one filter, and the second to the other. You would then tie the outputs back together. That might solve your volume problem by cutting in half the amount of water expected to go to each filter.
That's not a bad idea - and much less expensive one that I will definitely give some consideration to.
Why would putting in an 80 gallon galvanized tank be better than a similar sized bladder tank?
I'm thinking volume. The OP needs pressure but doesn't want to run out of water. A 80 gallon pressure tank would handle that. But the biggie is the cost. A 80 gallon bladder tank would run you $2,077.00,
( Check them out yourself at HTTP://BladderTanks.US) while I can purchase a 80 gallon galvanized pressure tank for $204.00. NOW which one would you recommend he install? Regards, Tom
I think your best bet would be to install a larger filter housing with a larger filter, or put two smaller ones in parallel as jl suggested. Either of these will increase volume.
But besides that, I would think you are basically suggesting the person put a large storage tank in their system. Their would be no air in the tank unless the owner added air from time to time, which is a pain. So it would amount to a simple storage tank that would depend upon the bladder tank for pressure. And since the filters would be between the two tanks, the pressure situation would not improve. How would putting a large tank in the line AFTER the filter improve the delivery of water to the house?
Now a bladder tank, with an air charge, would have its own pressure and not be dependent on the first tank. You have to view it as a an independent system receiving water from the final filter. An uncharged tank, it seems to me, would not bring any benefit.
So, to answer your question, I would rather spend 500 bucks for a pressure tank that might give me some benefit than spend 200 bucks for nothing. But I really don't think any tank is his answer. It would be like thinking that adding 2" pipe AFTER 1/2" pipe will somehow increase volume. It won't. The carbon filter is the restriction that has to be solved.
Just my view on it.
I should add that the video the guy supplied is a great idea.
Ahhh! You young plumbers tend to forget I was out in the field before bladder tanks, snap cutters and toilet flanges. What do you think we used before bladder tanks came out? A pressure tank will do the same thing as as bladder tank only three tines cheaper. If charging the tank is your only concern, for a small fee you can add a snifter valve to a pressure tank. So now, please tell me the advantage of paying three times as much for the same thing? And another thing. There are pressure tanks and bladder tanks why do you guys insist on calling as bladder tank a pressure tank. They aren't the same and it's downright coinfusding and misleading. Bottom line! You have two items that both perform the same function. One costs three times as much as the other. Which one would you recommend to your customer? Or would you even give them a choice? Your call! Have a great weekend. Tom
I wouldn't recommned either one to this guy. For a homeowner, adding a valve and having to buy the compressor to charge it periodically just doesn't make sense to me. But I do see your point about cost, and if a person really wants to go big (80 gallons), then it could make sense.
As always, a good discussion.
I might mention that I am neither young (58, though I'm still trying to figure out how that happened so soon) nor a plumber. I do have a little experience with wells and like to participate on this board. And having an exchange with Speedball is always a learning experience. Have a great Christmas.
having to buy the compressor to charge it periodically just doesn't make sense to me
Again, I got to differ. The way to charge a pressure tank is to simply drain the system and turn it back on. And 58 is young to a 84 year old dude. It's always fun for me to get into these discussions with you guys. New ideas, new methods etc, is what keeps a guy sharp. You have yourself a Happy Holiday. Cheers, Tom
My friend,
While you may not be a plumber to me you're a "plumbing expert" and your posts prove it. Plus the fact that you don't let me me roll over you in a discussion. I both like and respect that. You give good solid advice and I think the next named "plumbing expert" should be you. Regards, Tom
Okay... now that the holiday's are over (Happy New Year!), I've been doing some research on pricing on what everyone's recommended. I'd like to try adding the additional housing unit post UV filter first: 1) easier, 2) less cost. If that doesn't work, then I'll move forward with adding a second pressure/bladder tank (after more research on the differences :) ). Here's what I've found that seems like it'll do what I need: http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-5...letoutlet.aspx. Since this is twice the size of my current, I think just adding one would work the same as two smaller ones. Any opinions on brands of these - I've seen housing costs range from $60 to $200 depending on website/brand.
Works for me too. Thanks for the update.
Jlisenbe,
having to buy the compressor to charge it periodically just doesn't make sense to me.
It doesn't make sense to me either. That's because you don't charge a galvanized tank that way. To charge a galvanized tank you simply drain amd refill it. The air trapped on top will compress to the same PSI that the pump cuts off at. Cheers, Tom
I understand what you are saying. It's just another reason why, in my view, a person should not consider buying a galvanized tank. I had one here for several years that I had to recharge. Thankfully, I had a compressr. I would open a faucet and let it run and I kept putting air in, being careful not to push system pressure over 50 pounds or so. Seems to be a lot easier and less messy than draining the tank. Still, a bladder tank is pretty much maintanence free. That's the beauty of the whole thing.
I might add that, at least according to the manufacturers, a bladder tank is equivalent in performance to a much larger galvanized tank. A thirty gallon bladder tank, for instance, is equivalent to perhaps a sixty gallon galvanized tank. So you can't really compare them price-wise until you take that into consideration.
So what would you rather have, a thirty gallon, maintanence free bladder tank, or a sixty gallon galvanized tank that has to be worked on every three or four months?
BTW RB, don't let our discussion here bother you. We're just talking shop.
Perhaps my last post didn't make it through. You can use a compressor to charge a galvanized tank that's doing it the hard way. To charge a galvanized tank you simply drain amd refill it. The air trapped on top will compress to the same PSI that the pump cuts off.
thirty gallon bladder tank, for instance, is equivalent to perhaps a sixty gallon galvanized tank
so a thirty gallon bladder tank will hold as much volume as a sixty gallon galvanized pressure tank? The reason I suggested a pressure tank in the first place was the volume stored n the galvanized tank. With the exception of volume I agree with you. ( Except on how to recharge a pressure tank) LOL. Hope you had a Happy New Year and the hangover wasn't too bad. Cheers, Tom
My water tank is water logged and short cycling. I know I need to add air but I don't recall the exact steps and I don't want to damage the system. I think I have to turn off pump.. drain water until the tank is about half full and the air nozzle is above water level... use air pump to add air...