[jackswild77]

I have a 91 honda accord 4 cyl
I just put in a new distributor a year ago
Ran all right for the year then about 3 months ago it started over heating when I'd drive for more then 45 minutes
About a month ago it started having battery problems
The lights would shut off while I was driving or if I hit my blinker or tapped my brakes too fast
Then it quit working all together one day when I started it it ran for 10 seconds died and wouldn't start since then
I have no spark to my coil wire or my ignitor so I replaced my ignitor still no spark replaced it again just in case and I still have no spark I have no vehicle so I'm frantically trying to fix this but no luck please help

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then I would install your new igniter and coil in a new genuine Honda distributor housing. Aftermarket distributors for Hondas are problematic. Otherwise, try exchanging the distributor for another under warranty.

You really need to fix the overheating problem fast. It only takes one time for an aluminum head engine to overheat to warp the head, blow the head gasket, and damage the valves. Phosphate scale, due to minerals in the water, may be blocking passages in the radiator. Consider replacing the radiator and refilling with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water.

[jackswild77]

I'll give that a shot and let you know thanks : )

[jackswild77]

Hey man I tried that my engine light did not come on at all what I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting power to my distributor but my car will turn over
There's got to be something that's not working right between my battery and my distributor any ideas would be appreciated

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the CEL doesn't come on and go off after 2 seconds, the engine won't start. The starter motor will still crank, however. All efforts must first be directed to get the CEL to come on and go off normally:

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Be very thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money. Particularly, check the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in the under dash fuse box.

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing.

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM.

. Check/replace the main relay.

. Check/replace the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.

If the CEL doesn't work properly, you won't have power to the distributor. In all liklihood, the distributor, including the igniter and coil, are fine. Most likely, the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse has blown and/or you are experiencing ECM failure, which is common on older Hondas.

[jackswild77]

I think the over heating is caused by my thermostat being upside down
My car over heats unless I drive fast like 60 and up fast
It will stop over heating while my heater is turned on
And the heater doesn't work as strong as it used too

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Improperly installed thermostats are a leading cause of Hondas overheating. See what happens when you temporarily remove the thermostat.

[jackswild77]

What is a k-test?
And how do I find my ecu?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

[jackswild77]

I was looking for my ground on my thermostat housing I can't find it anywhere any ideas where else it might be? And how do I know what the map sensor is?