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Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil should solve the problem: https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896 I'd replace the rotor, too, while you have the distributor opened up. |
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Over 50% of all new aftermarket distributors for Hondas, at AMHD, don't work. The remaining ones are usually not reliable and problematic. Try returning the distributor. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down. If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is distributor related. |
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Comment on TxGreaseMonkey's post
Ok, here is what it is doing... it idles fine, but upon acceleration, it cuts out at first. Then it is fine as long as you are moving the gas peddle. If you level out the rpms, after 2 seconds , it starts to cut out again. Could it b the timing belt? Or the tps or idle/air control or mass air flow meter?
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I still think it's an aftermarket distributor issue. If you want, try getting the auto parts store to exchange the distributor for another. In 5 years at AMHD, I have not seen even one problem with Throttle Position Sensors. IACVs only affect performance at idle. Your car has a MAP Sensor, not a MAF Sensor. MAP Sensors are extremely reliable and expensive. Also, I have not seen one MAP Sensor problem in 5 years. Honda problems usually involve ICMs, coils, distributor housings, main relays, ignition switches, and ECMs. |
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