[hginvt]

I have a 93 Honda Civic with about 165,000 miles on it. The vehicle was running fine and taken out of service for the winter to avoid road salt/corrision. The battery was disconnected. Today, I charged the battery and went tostart the vehicle. The starting system engaed, however the vehicle did not start. I hear the fuel pump run, the check engine light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes off, and the oil pressure light does out after the engine has turned enough to get the pressure up. I did check for spark and had not spark

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

EXAMPLE: Diagnosing an Engine That Cranks but Won't Start

Check for spark at the plugs. If none, check for spark at the coil, after removing the distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover. Ground the test light clip and check for spark from the coil, as an assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the coil works, there should be a spark between the spring on the coil and the test light, as the probe is brought in the proximity of the spring. You now have spark at the coil and no spark at the plugs; therefore, replace the rotor and distributor cap, since one or both may be shorting out.

If there's no spark from the coil, check the igniter with the test light. Take a jumper wire, with alligator clips on each end, and ground out the coil spring. Touch the test light probe to the negative terminal on the coil, as your assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the igniter is good, the test light should blink on and off. If the test light does not blink on and off, replace the igniter. Should the coil still not spark, after replacing the igniter, replace the coil.

In real life, everything can check out but the engine can still die on you, once it gets hot and the igniter and/or coil start to break down under load. That's why I'm not a real fan of testing igniters and coils. This diagnostic process may keep you from just throwing parts at the problem—just be aware of its limitations.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils really take a beating in Hondas.

[hginvt]

As igniton parts are nonreturnable, how do I test these components to have confidence that they are the failed compoents that is preventing the vehicle from starting?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Follow the EXAMPLE given.

[hginvt]

Thanks.

[hginvt]

I changed out the coil and ICM and car started. I think it was the ICM. The coil ohmed out within spec, but decided to take your advice to change it out because of age/mileage; and didn't want to go back in there. Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You were smart to replace both of those items, while you had the distributor opened up. Now, you should have the reliability you need and expect.

Did you apply the silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM?

[hginvt]

Yes. It was included with the replacement part. And I read how important you believe it is for heat transfer.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Nice job--you should be set.

Did you examine the rotor and distributor cap carefully? Resistance in these parts often leads to secondary voltage destroying the ICM and coils. Look them over and make sure they're in good shape. It's a good idea to ohm out your spark plug wires for the same reason.