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    montana123's Avatar
    montana123 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 31, 2007, 06:45 PM
    1989 honda civic
    On the crankshaft, is the bolt reverse theaded or normal
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jan 31, 2007, 08:20 PM
    Pulley bolt is right-hand threaded (normal). Apply oil to the bolt threads, but not to the surface that contacts the washer, when tightening. 14 x 1.25 mm bolt is torqued to 134 lb-ft.
    mapdog's Avatar
    mapdog Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Feb 11, 2007, 05:15 PM
    Hey TXGM,
    Have you heard of a new bolt tightening procedure that involves torquing to 145 lb/ft then loosening completely, then you tighten to 20 lb/ft and mark the nut in relation to the pulley. Next, you turn the bolt 60 degrees, put all the accessory belts on and run the engine at idle for three minutes, shut down and then turn it an additional 30 degrees. I bought a new bolt from thehondapartsstore.com and these instructions came with it. It seems awfully complicated and to tell you the truth, I'm thinking about blowing them off and going with the good old once and done 134 lb/ft. What are your thoughts on this?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Feb 11, 2007, 05:34 PM
    Yes, I'm very aware of "torque to angle" applications. It's done on many head bolts. It's critically important to torque pulley bolts and head bolts the way the manufacturer recommends. To do otherwise is to court disaster. You don't experiment on these applications.

    From an engineering standpoint, what Honda advises makes a lot of sense. You are "seating" the pulley first and then ensuring there's no opportunity to falsely torque the pulley bolt. They know how crucial this is. It's obvious they have had problems with the older, simpler approach.

    ASME convention is to assume dry, unless specified otherwise. The old approach specified "wet," while the new approach, per your description, is "dry." The new approach also assumes you will use a "torque to angle" torque wrench. All of this sounds more involved than it really is. Rebuilders love this stuff.

    Still, if your personal and equipment limitations preclude you from properly following the torque to angle procedures, then follow the old approach--just make sure to apply clean engine oil to the threads (not the surface that contacts the washer) first.
    mapdog's Avatar
    mapdog Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Feb 13, 2007, 12:35 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by montana123
    on the crankshaft, is the bolt reverse theaded or normal
    Cool. I'll do it the way they say. I was thinking of doing it the other way because I didn't have the pulley holder tool and I was thinking that I would minimize the time holding the engine in place by some other method. I ordered the correct tool and I'll get er done the right way.
    mapdog's Avatar
    mapdog Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 13, 2007, 12:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by montana123
    on the crankshaft, is the bolt reverse theaded or normal
    It is normal threads.

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