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    Russ1975's Avatar
    Russ1975 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Feb 4, 2011, 01:22 PM
    Leveling uneven shower curb
    Oops... I build a mortar shower bed and when I installed the door I discovered that the curb was not level from one side to the other so the door won't close! Is my only option to remove the tile on the curb, level it, and reinstall the tile? If so, can I use thinset to level it? It's about 1/2 inch off. Thanks!
    smoothy's Avatar
    smoothy Posts: 25,490, Reputation: 2853
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    #2

    Feb 4, 2011, 01:29 PM

    Can you fine new replacement ties for that's that are likely to break when you remove them? Its recent install and I assume its yes. Do you have to remove 1/2" or do you have to build up 1/2" to be level?
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    Russ1975 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Feb 4, 2011, 01:41 PM
    Comment on smoothy's post
    Brand new install so I still have the tiles. I am thinking it would be easier to remove 1/2 inch that build it up
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    smoothy Posts: 25,490, Reputation: 2853
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    #4

    Feb 4, 2011, 01:49 PM

    OK... getting out tiles that are set and cured would be an ugly job.

    I'd grind down 1/4" - 1/2" off the high side and put the tile in with thinset as you said (then grout)... using a torpedo level and sloping the top ever-so-slightly back into the show pan so any water that puddles will drain back in rather than out on the floor. Not sure the max acceptable thinkness for thinset... but its safe to assume 1/2" is way too much.
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    Russ1975 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Feb 4, 2011, 02:57 PM
    Comment on smoothy's post
    Thanks! I think I sloped the curb too much toward the shower pan... is that really an issue or is "too much" OK? I will think twice next time I volunteer to build my girlfriend a shower...
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    Russ1975 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 4, 2011, 03:04 PM
    One more question... I already installed the frameless shower wall and will have to remove it and drill new holes when I lower the curb, which will leave me with extra holes in the tile, or worse, on really big hole if the new ones overlap... if that happens is there a good way to anchor the door to the wall through a too-big hole? The more I think about this the less I like it!
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    smoothy Posts: 25,490, Reputation: 2853
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    #7

    Feb 4, 2011, 03:51 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Russ1975 View Post
    One more question...I already installed the frameless shower wall and will have to remove it and drill new holes when I lower the curb, which will leave me with extra holes in the tile, or worse, on really big hole if the new ones overlap...if that happens is there a good way to anchor the door to the wall through a too-big hole? The more I think about this the less I like it!
    You may want to wait for answers from some of the more experieced guys before you jump in with both feet.

    Didn't know about the doors already drilled... that really complicates things a lot. So... how the door is now... is it fine at the high end... if you shaved 1/4" off the high half... and used a little extra thinset on the low half how would that be.

    What I'm trying to ask... in the center... how is the spacing to the door as it is now mounted? Perfect... high or low?
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    Russ1975 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Feb 4, 2011, 03:56 PM
    Comment on smoothy's post
    It's a neo-angle door and when I "close" it, it's about 1/8 inch too low to clear the base at the non-hinged side... that's where I'm thinking I need to lower the curb... really messed this one up!
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    smoothy Posts: 25,490, Reputation: 2853
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    #9

    Feb 4, 2011, 04:44 PM

    You live you learn... anyone who says they have never made a mistake... has never actually done anything.

    So the mortar bed is 1/8" too high at that end... then figure the tile thickness and thinset thickness it will be even higher... grind down to the required amount and you really aren't very much low on the low end... YOU may have to pick up a masonary wheel and rent or borrow a grinder... but I don't see a major screwup... just a minor one that can be fixed.
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    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #10

    Feb 4, 2011, 07:39 PM

    I think I would break out the tiles and redo. Shouldn't be difficult. Only difficult thing would be if you tile the ledge and then the floor, putting the bottom of the tile in a hole. Then just need a old small screwdriver to chisel out.

    Ledges are not normally sloped. Well, not enough to notice. Yes, you can use thinset to build up. If you decide to raise and relocate the door, break out the tiles with the existing holes and replace. Just smack in the center with hammer and pry out the pieces.
    Won't be as difficult to fix as you think.
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    Russ1975 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Feb 5, 2011, 11:44 PM
    Thanks for all the help... I took off the tile and ground down the mortar and reinstalled the tile... took me 16 hours today but I finished it and it works! What a relief!
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    smoothy Posts: 25,490, Reputation: 2853
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    #12

    Feb 6, 2011, 10:09 AM

    Glad to hear it... look at it this way... a REAL screwup would have had you tearing things out and starting over. :eek:

    You did pretty good as a non professional to make a mistake that minor.
    Good thing it turned out to be as easy to correct as it was.

    Like I said.. it's a learning experience... especially when you don't have a master craftsman to mentor you and catch you when you make the mistakes.

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