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    swhitter's Avatar
    swhitter Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 17, 2010, 12:32 PM
    Should I use cemented PVC or PVC sections for main sewer line?
    I'm replacing the main sewer line for my 1850's house located in Quebec, hence cold winters and the risk of shifting due to freeze thaw cycles. The line was previously replaced, and is now a series of three feet long 6 inch concrete sections connected together. I was planning on installing PVC pipe cemented together but was advised to install non-cemented PVC sections which slide into one another as this method has more flexibility. Since my original reason for changing the drain was roots, I'm more inclined to go with the cemented sections which seems more tight.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #2

    Nov 17, 2010, 04:12 PM

    Hi Swhitter...

    The gasketed sewer piping is definitely the way to go in areas that are prone to freeze/thaw cycles... no question! Here, as the pipe expands/contracts and as the ground moves in these extremes you'll definitely want a pipe that allows some movement without cracking!

    When you get to within 10 feet of the house transition over to regular schedule 40 PVC and install a full-size cleanout just inside or outside the foundation wall (depends on code in your area).

    If you want to help discourage roots anywhere near the gasketed joints pour some copper sulphate crystals around each joint as a little added security for the future. Copper sulphate is a major root killer... ;)

    Mark
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    swhitter's Avatar
    swhitter Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Nov 18, 2010, 06:58 AM
    Thanks for the response Mark. Any idea where to purchase the copper sulphate crystals?

    One last question, do I need a bed of gravel under the pipes and if so how thick?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #4

    Nov 18, 2010, 07:17 AM

    In my area we use pea stone and compact 6 inches under the pipe, embed the pipe and then cover with another 6" of pea stone, compact and then add regular dirt to grade.

    Be sure to compast the underside real well or a belly (or bellys) can develop in the pipe years down the road creating potential for backed up sewer drain.

    Copper sulphate can be picked up at any plumbing supply store or at any home improvement store under root destroyers... read the container to be sure. A local landscape supplier may also carry this in bulk.

    Mark
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    swhitter Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Dec 1, 2010, 09:36 AM
    Just a quick follow up... It took me two full days of digging through roots and big stones to clear out a forty foot trench and uncover the 3 foot sections of concrete pipe making up my sanitary drain. By the time we reached the city connection near the sidewalk, the trench was over six feet deep.

    Once everything was uncovered, it took two plumbers, myself and a mini-excavator another ten hours to replace the water supply and the drain (both outside and under the basement floor. My cost in materials and tool rentals was approximately $2,000.00 (4 inch ABS under the basement floor, 6 inch PVC underground and 66 feet of type k made in Canada copper pipe. The plumbers cost another $2,000 for their labour.

    A quick estimate for the complete job by the plumbers was $8,000 (all amounts include tax).

    Mark: Thanks for your comments. It made me rethink my approach and do the job right the first time.

    This isn't a difficult job, but it is time consuming and grueling. Once you complete this project, you get a new understanding of "sweat" equity.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #6

    Dec 1, 2010, 11:02 AM

    Hey hey! Thank you for following up with us on this. It's always nice to know the result!

    Mark

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