[linmicc]

My 98 honda accord has been having this problem: the starter engages upon turning the key, the engine turns over, but it simply won't fire. I do this 10 - 15 times and eventually it does fire and run, but there's no guarantee how long it will run or that it will start the next time I turn the key off. Unfortunately, this happens very sporadically (meaning it happens several times randomly throughout the week, but whenever I bring it to the mechanic, the problem WON'T happen for them!), which makes it difficult to diagnose (not to mention the hassle of having to bring it in knowing that the problem might not be resolved!).

Also, several times the car simply dies while I'm driving, sometimes when sitting idle at a stoplight, sometimes while driving 70mph down the interstate highway! Obviously, this can be very scary, since the power steering also dies rendering the car difficult to control! It is my wife's car, so I don't feel great about sending her out when I know the car is having these problems!

Any suggestions?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Several characteristics of a bad igniter are no spark (dead engine); fluctuating rpm; engine suddenly dying without warning, especially when hot; and engine not starting when hot. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor. Shop for price and warranty--aftermarket parts are fine.

[linmicc]

Thanks TxGreaseMonkey! I'll give it a shot and get back to you with results!

[ITstudent2006]

It might be more simple then that. Not sure though, I'll explain and let you decide.

I dealt with a 94' Civic. Same symptoms. The issue was the distributor cap bolt rusted out leaving a gap. When it was moist out or when it rained the car wouldn't start. After many times the car would eventually start.

Not sure if this is it but before you go changing the ICM it might be worth looking into.

TxGreaseMonkey- could the OP just check the Ignition Switch fuse?

Rick

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Since the car eventually starts, it's not a fuse problem. It has the earmarks of a component breaking down. Your distributor cap situation, Rick, was somewhat atypical. I believe this a garden variety ICM and/or coil problem. Rick, was the O-ring in good shape on your cap?

[ITstudent2006]

I guess I don't understand the verbage atypical? Sorry, mind explaining.

Rick

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Atypical = Non-typical = Unusual

[ITstudent2006]

Thanks. Even for a 98 it's "atypical" for this to happen? Was it rare that it happened to a car I had?

Rick

P.S. I'll put that word in my toolbox for later :)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes, it was rare that it happened to your car. In fact, no one else has ever reported that situation before at AMHD that I'm aware of.

Rick, did you have an O-ring sealing your distributor cap?

[ITstudent2006]

Interesting thanks for clarifying.

[linmicc]

I tried GreaseMonkey's suggestion and replaced the Ignition Control Module, which cost about $170 for the part. Problem still persisted.

So I finally called the Honda dealer, who checked and found a recall for this vehicle. He told me to try wiggling the key while the engine was running to see if the engine would die. I tried, no results. So I brought the car to his shop and when HE wiggled the key (more aggressively than I dared!), sure enough the engine died! Turns out the recall was for a faulty ignition switch! They replaced it in an hour at no charge, and we haven't had any problems since!

Lesson learned: Check for a recall BEFORE troubleshooting other possible problems!


Thanks to all who offered helpful suggestions. I shouldn't have to worry about my ICM for a while! :o)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

That ICM should have been dipped in gold for $170.00. They cost $66.89 at RockAuto.com (Beck/Arnley) and $92.99 at AutoZone (JP129).