[DurbinKW]

I purchased a 92 civic and replaced the fuel pump to get it running. It ran just a little rough. So I took the distributor cap off and cleaned the points within it and the "blade" of the rotor and put it back together. After that, no start. So I replaced the cap and rotor. Still no start. Cranks and cranks but won't hit. Its getting fuel, and spark, though the spark may be a bit weak. Any suggestions of what this could be? Thanks!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

[DurbinKW]

If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Thanks for the reply! I was reading on another one of your posts and was curious if you would think the tachometer could be the issue? I forgot to mention that same day, when the car was running, the tachometer wouldn't move until it reached about 3k rpms (give or take) and then it would jump there and work. Just wondering if, since I am getting spark, that this could be a potential issue.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The BLU wire from the ICM drives the tachometer. The tach not working right confirms the ICM is bad.

[DurbinKW]

The BLU wire from the ICM drives the tachometer. The tach not working right confirms the ICM is bad.

Is it probable that the engine will start by disconnecting the BLU wire from the ICM as stated in your other note? Sorry for all the questions! Just trying to see what I can do before actually doing it while sitting here at work. May be a week or so before I can pick up an ICM or Coil and want to do all I can do to ensure that my efforts aren't in vein. You're a Godsend!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The failing ICM is the cause, the erratic tachometer is the effect. I don't think disconnecting the tachometer, by removing the BLU wire, will make any difference, in this situation.

[DurbinKW]

The failing ICM is the cause, the erratic tachometer is the effect. I don't think disconnecting the tachometer, by removing the BLU wire, will make any difference, in this situation.

We'll after some looking at the internals of the distributor, we went with a gut feeling and replaced the coil. It runs! But now, a new issue. The running rough is being caused by cylinder #2 not working. The cam is fine, the plugs and wires are fine and there is a sparks. The fuel injector also passes the stethoscope test. Do you have any recommendations of why this cylinder isn't firing? Thanks again!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You ask for advice and then really don't follow it.

[DurbinKW]

You ask for advice and then really don't follow it.

I purchased both parts, which weren't cheap. Had the ICM tested (understanding ICM tests are unreliable) but it passed without a hitch, and the spark was there, just weak so I figured it's not getting boosted? When I took the coil out, the metal shield on the back of it fell off (which was attached solidly on the new one) and there was a rather large burn mark on the back side of it. (hence the gut feeling of trying that route first) and that corrected the issue. The tack issues haven't recurred since either (so I returned the ICM) but I'm sure that will go out too, in time, but I'm scrimping by and can't afford to fix something that's not broken, yet. I really do appreciate your advice and it definitely led me in the correct direction. You originally stated to replace both, and I intended on going that far if needed, but sometimes things work out differently than we expect. But I did veer from your guidance, so I assume you won't be answering my questions now. My apologies. Time to get the tools out and tear things apart! :D