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New Member
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Dec 18, 2006, 12:05 AM
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Yard Machines Electrical Arcing question for the pros
I have 3 MTD Yard Machines That do not run properly. They are all from about 1997-2000. I bought one new, inherited one from my inlaws, and one from my father's neighbor. They all act like lemons and they all have similar issues, so I will Ask About mine first as I know the most.
Tractor: MTD Yard Machines 15 HP 42" shift on the go
Model #: 13A6672G129
Engine: Tecumseh Enduro XL/C OHV155
Problem: Began as a voltage spark/arc at the point where the Clutch/brake pedal bottoms out to the bracket that is attached to the frame. This happened every time you turned the key for as long as I can remember. If you did not push the clutch to where the frame contact was made, it would not turn over. Anyway it would spark/arc while turning over, the start, run, and cut just fine. Now it will spark/arc, start, run fine, until you release the pedal, the it dies. Often, now the pedal is lightly Arc welded to the frame by the intense spark. I have to tap it to get it free, but then it dies.
Attempted fixes: Replaced Clutch/ brake safety switch with a new one direct from MTD. I followed all wires from the battery to the solenoid and the starter and removed and cleaned/sanded all screw on wire connections that I could find. Checked the fuse near the solenoid. Checked the seat safety switch by both jumping it and leaving it open (the switch is normally open, when the seat is down).
Things not checked for proper operation: Blade engaged safety switch, reverse safety switch, solenoid, starter, Key ignition switch, Ammeter,? any other things I didn't mention.
It just seems like all the voltage is flowing through the clutch pedal to the frame to starting system.
Other conditions: My Tractor has been left out in the rain many times over the years. However, my inlaws was garage kept but has the same arcing problem)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Jim
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Full Member
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Jan 1, 2007, 07:10 AM
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I would say you should be able to skip the ignition switch and go straight to check the wires going to and from the solenoid and starter. Also check your battery as well if you haven't already. If you have a voltmeter it would be handy in locating the break in the circuit when the mower won't start (clucth pedal up).You could use your meter to measure between battery ground and the clucth pedal to see if you have a positive break or a ground break as well, help you narrow it down. Also maybe check for a ground jumper between one part of the frame and the other.
Good Luck
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Senior Member
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Jan 1, 2007, 10:31 AM
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 Originally Posted by jbway10712
I have 3 MTD Yard Machines That do not run properly. They are all from about 1997-2000. I bought one new, inherited one from my inlaws, and one from my father's neighbor. They all act like lemons and they all have similar issues, so I will Ask About mine first as I know the most.
Tractor: MTD Yard Machines 15 HP 42" shift on the go
Model #: 13A6672G129
Engine: Tecumseh Enduro XL/C OHV155
Problem: Began as a voltage spark/arc at the point where the Clutch/brake pedal bottoms out to the bracket that is attached to the frame. This happened everytime you turned the key for as long as I can remember. If you did not push the clutch to where the frame contact was made, it would not turn over. Anyway it would spark/arc while turning over, the start, run, and cut just fine. Now it will spark/arc, start, run fine, until you release the pedal, the it dies. Often, now the pedal is lightly Arc welded to the frame by the intense spark. I have to tap it to get it free, but then it dies.
Attempted fixes: Replaced Clutch/ brake safety switch with a new one direct from MTD. I followed all wires from the battery to the solenoid and the starter and removed and cleaned/sanded all screw on wire connections that I could find. Checked the fuse near the solenoid. Checked the seat safety switch by both jumping it and leaving it open (the switch is normally open, when the seat is down).
Things not checked for proper operation: Blade engaged safety switch, reverse saftey switch, solenoid, starter, Key ignition switch, Ammeter, ????, any other things I didn't mention.
It just seems like all the voltage is flowing through the clutch pedal to the frame to starting system.
Other conditions: My Tractor has been left out in the rain many times over the years. However, my inlaws was garage kept but has the same arcing problem)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Jim
It sounds as if you may have a couple different problems. The safety switches work through the ignition coil by grounding it out. If you lift your foot off the clutch pedal and it dies it is because the mower doesn't sense an operator on the seat and thinks it is in gear and or blades are engaged and grounds ignition coil. You have stated that you have checked seat switch, I would disconnect coil kill wire at its source for diagnostics.
The engine does not require battery voltage to run, only crank. A loss of ground or hot by lifting pedal would not kill the engine only by grounding out coil do we kill the engine. It generates ignition voltage through a magneto.
I believe the arcing at the clutch is the result of a poor ground from the battery . The safety switches would not have enough amps to weld.
The solenoid activation wire is very low in amps and probably would not weld pedal.
Do a voltage test as morrowrj states and you will find the arcing problem.
Just some sugestions hope they help,
Don
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New Member
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Jan 1, 2007, 08:32 PM
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Thanks for the responses, I'll follow your suggestions and repost when I get a chance in the next couple of days.
-Jim
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New Member
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Jan 10, 2007, 10:32 PM
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Still working on it. Still no luck but I know the answer is right in front of me. I'll get it soon. I'll probably start from scratch to make sure I didn't miss anything. I have limited time to work on it ( an hour here and there) 'cause I have 3 babies, 1,2,and 3yrs old. I'll post back when I fix it. Feel free to post suggestions. I'll check back regularly.
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