[newhomelake]

My handrail is composed of red oak. The person that did the staining for me first sanded the rail, and then applied the stain. However the wood did not absorb the stain in some areas and now those areas are blotchy (you can see the wood). Then the stainer applied 2 or 3 coats of a waterbased finish. My basic question is how can the handrail be salvaged now.

[tickle]

Waterbased stain remover and a really good washing down with a gentle dishwashing detergent and a really good sanding. I think the problem is the wood was handled too much and absorbed dirty handprints, etc. oil from skin, etc. in this case the handrail should have been neutralized again, sanded and then the stained. Of course it can be salvaged, that is the beauty of good wood.

Tick

[newhomelake]

Waterbased stain remover and a really good washing down with a gentle dishwashing detergent and a really good sanding. I think the problem is the wood was handled too much and absorbed dirty handprints, etc., oil from skin, etc., in this case the handrail should have been neutralized again, sanded and then the stained. Of course it can be salvaged, that is the beauty of good wood.

tick

How do I neutralize the wood again?

[hkstroud]

Who ever did the staining screwed up. Oak stains fairly easily and is not prone to blotching. Person should not have applied the finish until a good consistent stain was achieved.

Sand handrail down to bare wood. Then sand with 100 grit sand paper, then sand with 120 grit. Be consistent with sanding. Everything makes a difference with staining, the wood, the sanding and the staining. Assuming you are using a wiping stain, the stain is not absorbed by the wood fibers. The stain pigments actually reside in the scratches left by the sand paper. Therefore, if you sand with 100 grit more stain will remain after you wipe it than if you sand with 120 grit. If the stain is not dark enough, remove (with mineral spirits) and resand with 100 grit.
Easiest way to get a consistent stain is to spray it. If you own a small compressor, purchase a Little Critter spray gun, about $40. Simply spray on the amount of stain you want, don't wipe. Spray a light coat, let it dry and see how you like it. If you want it darker, spray again. Then your stain will be consistent.
Note that you cannot darken a spot by applying another coat when wiping. The second coat just reactivates the dried pigments. In fact you can remove stain by applying additional stain and wiping off.

Not other way to insure a good job but to sand away all existing stain and finish material.

[Clough]

Hi, newhomelake!

What does the grain pattern on the handrail look like, please? Also, is this a new rail or one that had been stripped?

Depending on the cut of that rail and how it was prepared before staining, as well as the type of stain that's used, will make a big difference in the final appearance of it.

Please don't use anything that contains water until more information is revealed here.

Thanks!

[newhomelake]

Firstly my handrail is brand new. The wood is not too grainy or knotty. I believe he sanded it by hand and then applied a miniwax stain to it. Thank you.

Hi, newhomelake!

What does the grain pattern on the handrail look like, please? Also, is this a new rail or one that had been stripped?

Depending on the cut of that rail and how it was prepared before staining, as well as the type of stain that's used, will make a big difference in the final appearance of it.

Please don't use anything that contains water until more information is revealed here.

Thanks!