[Hondaking]

It's a internal coil

[TxGreaseMonkey]

What is the part no. for your distributor?

[Hondaking]

It's a (Td01u)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I see it now. The coil is #TC-07A.

[Hondaking]

Ok so I get a tc-o7a coil right

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes. You'll probably see that number somewhere on your current coil. It's a good idea to take it with you for comparison.

I believe you have a TEC (Tokyo Electric Company) distributor (i.e. TD-01U) and a TEC coil (i.e. TC-07A).

T=TEC
D=Distributor
C=Coil

[Hondaking]

Ok well ill go to the salvage yard tomorrow and ill let u know how it goes thank u

[TxGreaseMonkey]

OK

[Hondaking]

I went to autozone to get my coil tested and while I was at it I decided to check my icm and I have two icm got them both tested and both failed the test but also they told me that they stopped testing coils so I called orielly's and they also stopped testing coils. But they told me to use a voltmeter and test the resistance but how do I do that? Without it being pluged in or does it need to even be pluged in?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Coil Test:

Set multimeter to ohms.

1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.

2. Measure resistance (Ω ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not with specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

Bench test coils is really not reliable, since it does not simulate the heat in actual operation.

[Hondaking]

So what do you recomemnd other then the bench test

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you can afford it, replace both the ICM and coil every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

If AutoZone's test says the ICM is bad, it is bad. However, if it says the ICM is fine, it may or may not work in practice. This is the same thing with testing coils. The tests just are not definitive.

[Hondaking]

Ok well I'm going to try and buy both of them ill let u know what happense because if I get them from the salvage yard I'm not so sure it would work seeing as all those cars are well over 120,000 miles and 10 years over 10 years

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I don't like spending people's money for them but ICMs and coils are problematic components on Hondas.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Be sure to apply the heat transfer compound to the back of any new ICM or it won't last long.

[Hondaking]

Yeah I understand plus I feel too close to just give up and I have spent too much money to turn back now cause before I started to talk to you I had to replace broken parts in the distributor so I feel that that's the problem but either way will see if it is I hope so

[Hondaking]

I will is that like a grease or something

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It's a very specialized compound--it's not ordinary silicone grease. Don't use anything else. They should give you a small amount with your new ICM.

Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern-day electronics.

[Hondaking]

Ok ill be sure to put it on there

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Did you test the ICM in the new distributor from salvage?