[bbriggs]

I'm looking to have two Motion Sensor on one circuit. Long walk and want one sensor at both ends.

The Sensor I'm using:
http://rikain.com/Manuals/Intruder_a...nteck/ES34.pdf

Also Note the Sensor I'm using allows you to switch it 'off' and 'on' quickly in order to override the sensor and have it stay on for a period.

The following is the circuit I'm looking to build:

[KISS]

The short red vertical wire at the box (box where wires meet) needs to be removed.

[bbriggs]

The short red vertical wire at the box (box where wires meet) needs to be removed.

KeepItSimpleStupid, Thanks. Maybe my drawing is confusing but I assume I need to have all wires in the LS channel connected to allow all lights to be turned on by either sensor. Otherwise if I remove that connection the lights will be operated independently.

Assume that vertical line just means the wire terminate at that point. If I leave that connection as drawn will the circuits work?

Thanks again, BBriggs

[KISS]

Your right. Sorry. The drawing is confusing. The two gold verticle lines heading downward probably should have been red.

Using black (hot), White ( a tough one) and RED (Switched hot) which are the same wires in the cable would have helped too. These are the same colors in say typical 14/3 cable.

Looks OK.

If your really unsure, you can breadbord it up with 2 detectors and 1 light and one of my famous "killmequicks". It would not be unusual for me to do something like stuff wires into an extension cord to get simple power for a test spread out on the floor.

Light bulbs in SERIES with the power make great current dependent resistors. So a 100 W bulb in series with your power switch and a night light load will basically say your circuit if shorted can draw no more than 100 W.

The cold resistance of a lamp is about 10-15 times less then the resistance when hot. That's why it works. You mst have minimum loads if the motion detector using a solid state switch.