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    jasuga42's Avatar
    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 7, 2009, 09:14 AM
    Moving faucets and showerheads
    I want to move my faucets and shower head to a different wall within the shower enclosure. Is it possible without having to dig into the foundation of my house?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #2

    Oct 7, 2009, 09:23 AM

    It can be done but you need to open the wall on the shower stall side or the opposite side of the wall. You will have some patching to do so what is the shower enclosure made of?
    jasuga42's Avatar
    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Oct 7, 2009, 10:02 AM
    My shower is made of acryllic. But I'm removing that so that it can be tiled. For more space in the shower I need to move the faucet and shower head to a different wall without having to dig into the foundation. I got a $1416.00 quote from a plumber to move the plumbing back about 8 inches for more space. So I figured it would be less expensive to just reroute the lines to another wall. Is that possible? The shower enclosure is more long than wide and I'd like to move the fixtures to another wall without having to move the plumbing within the foundation. Will that be possible?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #4

    Oct 7, 2009, 11:01 AM

    You can reroute the pipes inside the wall and then cover the wall with a vapor barrier and Hardiebacker board before tiling. No need to get into the foundation or slab. You can reuse the faucets and shower arm if you wish but adding some pipe to extend the run behind the wall
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    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Oct 7, 2009, 11:11 AM

    So would I just cut the pipes and reroute with new pipes and then reuse the old faucet and shower arm. I'm sorry if my questioning is bothersome. I just want to be sure before I cut the copper lines.
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    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #6

    Oct 7, 2009, 11:18 AM

    Well first thing would be to shut down your main and open the faucets in the house, several rooms, to drain the lines. Remove the escutcheon plates for the shower valve and handle(s), unscrew shower arm with a web wrench if you plan to reuse. Now cut the enclosure with a reciprocating saw and take out in pieces, I don't know what type of drain you have so I can't tell you what to do on the drain. Once this is all done and out you will see either sheet rock behind the enclosure of bare studs, if sheet rock remove it down to the studs, cover with visqueen vapor barrier and then screw Hardiebacker boards to all the walls that will ever get wet. Once you open this pdf then expand it to 100% to read.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #7

    Oct 7, 2009, 11:28 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by jasuga42 View Post
    move the plumbing back about 8 inches for more space.
    What does that mean?

    Why not show us a picture of the shower. Put blue tape where you want to move the valve and shower head. I hope you don't want to move them to an outside wall.
    jasuga42's Avatar
    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:04 PM
    This is how the shower looks from the lines to the stall itself. The blue tape is pointing to the wall where I want to move the faucet handles and shower arm.

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    jasuga42's Avatar
    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:07 PM
    This is were the plumber wants to move the plumbing back 8 inches.

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    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #10

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:07 PM

    Enclosed is sketch for better visualization...

    Usually it is better to reroute pipe through ceiling bcs joist are running across the width of the bathroom. Therefore, you don't have to drill through so many studs.

    You can use soft copper. This way you will have only 2 sweat joints on each run and no sharp 90s.

    Yes, you can reuse your old, 2 handle shower faucet. In this case, you will cross pipes at the opposite wall. If you use single handle faucet with cartridge, you don't have to cross pipes. You will just turn the cartridge 180 degrees.

    What are your plans with shower pan ?

    As far as the price goes: I think your plumber is a bit too high. It is about 3 hour job for plumber provided you do all the demo. I think it is worth about $750.00.
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    jasuga42's Avatar
    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:34 PM

    Mr Milo Dolezal, Thank you. However my shower is not that big; only a 36" L by 30 W and the drain is not centered can I still move the lines without having to worry about the drain?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #12

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:39 PM

    Drain can stay where it is, not dependent of the valves at all. However, going from fiberglass to tile will require a different drain connection. Are you installing a mud pan from scratch or a acrylic pan like a Swanstone? Swanstone Products
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    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:41 PM

    I want to install a mudpan from scratch
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #14

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:42 PM

    jasuga42: It doesn't matter how big your shower is. I just wanted to give you general idea how to move the pipes. You can move the pipes any direction you want. I don't think you have to move the drain unless you want it or unless the design calls for it. Drain issue is unrelated to relocating water pipes. You can leave it the way it is.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #15

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:45 PM

    OK mud pan from scratch, you picked the trickiest installation of all, got any experience with this? Maybe explore this option rather than a mudder. Shower Systems - Schluter-Systems I do not even do mud pans myself.
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #16

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:45 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by jasuga42 View Post
    I want to install a mudpan from scratch

    Mud pan is a good choice. As Ballengerb1 points out, you will need specific drain head. It is either plastic or Cast Iron.

    Are you planning on installing the pan yourself or do you plan on calling a professional ?
    jasuga42's Avatar
    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:46 PM

    I plan on doing the pan myself
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #18

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:47 PM

    Hmmm... I doubt you can do Mud Pan yourself. You can do the prep work yourself - but the actual Hot Mopping will most likely be done by a professional.

    Watch this video clip: is this something you think you can accomplish by yourself ?
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxj8i7gpfPg
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6h_4...eature=related
    jasuga42's Avatar
    jasuga42 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #19

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:49 PM

    You're probably right, because I've never heard of the term hot mopping. But can a professional be expensive?
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #20

    Oct 7, 2009, 12:54 PM

    For 3'x3' my guy charges about $300.00.

    Opinions differ. Here, in So.California, we consider Hot Mop the best waterproofing for shower pans. I would not go with any other method in my own house.

    Also, you can use PVC liner or prefab plastic pan...

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