[RichMan130]

1991 Honda Civic 1.5L

Car wouldn't start (no spark). Replaced ignition control module (igniter?) 6 weeks ago. Three weeks ago stranded at airport. Engine cranked fine but would rarely hit. Pull start worked (manual transmission). Made it home and car would not even hit next morning. Replaced plugs/plug wires and fuel filter and solved problem. Two weeks later I changed the starter as it would turn very slow or not at all unless I banged on it with a large wrench. That night car suddenly died 3 blocks from home. I found the coild and distributor cap were badly burnt so I replaced them. Car then made it about 20 miles and died again (no spark). I then changed the entire distributor and car has made it almost 200 miles now.

After changing distributor I had to manually adjust timing by engine idle/response since I had no timing light. The car now runs pretty good but not perfect. I now get error codes 4 and 8 (crank position and top dead center sensors). Why would I get these errors with a new distributor? Should I disconnect the battery to reset the ECU/ECM and see what happens?

What, if anything, could be causing my electrical failures. I do not want to get stranded again and need to replace the distributor or parts inside any time soon.

Thanks

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes, reset the ECM. However, the problem may stem from installing an aftermarket distributor. We've had many problems on this site with new aftermarket distributors. Therefore, I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket ICMs and coils have been fine. Make sure you applied silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM or it will not last long.

[RichMan130]

I reset the ECM and then drove the car a mile or so. No error codes yet.

I got the distributor from AutoZone. I'm quite poor and did not think I could afford a Honda replacement.

There were no instructions in the ICM box so I did not know to apply the paste. That being said, I did try to replace the ICM a second time and it did not help. I took both the new coil and the ICM to AutoZone and they said both were fine but gave me the 2nd ICM anyway. It did not help. That's when I got the entire distributor. I could see that the CYP sensor looked quite burned. I think this is the correct term. It was the sensor directly under the rotor. The gear on the shaft to this sensor had only 4 prongs. The gear deeper in the distributor had many prongs and were not evenly spaced. I think this is the TDC sensor.

Could there be some other problem that is causing all my troubles or is it just bad luck for me?

Thanks for your answers.
RM

[TxGreaseMonkey]

This link explains the importance of using silicone heat transfer compound:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Make sure that each spark plug cable is fully seated in the distributor cap. If they are not, they can stress a coil to the max and burn them out. It's best to apply dielectric grease to the terminals.

Honda distributors tend to last around 90,000 miles. It's common for the bearings, ICMs, coils, and internal sensors to fail. Historically, this has been the weak link on Hondas.

If electricity cannot easily flow to the spark plugs, because too high resistance in the wires or distributor cap, the current will be discharged on the components inside the distributor. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance to ground. When this happens, ICMs, coils, distributor caps, and internal sensors can be destroyed. This is why it's important to regularly replace these items proactively. I prefer the matched set of BWD distributor cap and rotor for Hondas, since their distributor caps have brass contacts inside and come with a lifetime warranty. Honda's are aluminum and corrode and erode faster. Try to shop for price and warranty.

My bet is that you probably solved your problem.

[RichMan130]

Thanks again for your time.

I disconnected the battery earlier to reset the ECM. I then drove the car for a mile or so. I have no error codes yet.

Where can I find dielectric grease?

When I replaced the plugs, I found that one of them had oil in the plug hole (like I read in another post here). After changing the plugs I've checked for this problem a few times (a couple weeks later at least) and I see no new oil on the plug wire. Would this likely be soved by tightening the valve cover bolts?

I could not find the Rate this Answer button. Where is it?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Dielectric grease is available in small packets at AutoZone and most auto parts stores. Frequently, it's right near the cash register. Remember, dielectric grease is not the same as the silicone heat transfer grease used on ICMs.

For the oil leaking into the spark plug tubes, remove the valve cover and replace the seal over each tube:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...ark+plug+seals

Coat the tapered portion of the seal with clean engine oil, before installation.

The orange "Rate this Answer!" button should be right there.

[RichMan130]

Thanks man.

I do not have a Rate this Answer button. All I have is 'Support this Member' and 'Quote User' buttons. The 'Support this Member' button takes me to a credit card entry form. Sorry, I'm new and not sure what to do.

RM

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Don't worry about it. Just hope I helped you somewhat.