Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    Ineedhelpplumbi's Avatar
    Ineedhelpplumbi Posts: 21, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jun 24, 2009, 09:50 PM
    Finishing a one piece tub.
    My problem is that I have a one piece tub and after using furring my sheet rock will be even with the fiberglass nailing flange. What should I do in a case like this? I'm tempted to just go throughout the whole bathroom and adding a nother layer of 1/4''. If some one could help me avoid this it would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #2

    Jun 24, 2009, 10:36 PM

    All drywall goes over the nailing flange. Is this a new tub installation?

    It sounds like you installed a new tub up against old drywall/plaster and forgot to sink in the tub or built it out wrong. If the Tubs nailing flange is against the furring strips, then drywall over that and over the tubs flanges.

    On a side note of this is a new tub install did you set it in brown Coat "structolite" that goes under the tub. The factories ( bottoms contact points are never enough for a real solid tub bottom.

    STRUCTO-LITE Basecoat - USG Corporation
    Ineedhelpplumbi's Avatar
    Ineedhelpplumbi Posts: 21, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Jun 24, 2009, 10:41 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    All drywall goes over the nailing flange. Is this a new tub installation??

    It sounds like you installed a new tub up against old drywall/plaster and forgot to sink in the tub or built it out wrong. If the Tubs nailing flange is against the furring strips, then drywall over that and over the tubs flanges.

    On a side note of this is a new tub install did you set it in brown Coat "structolite" that goes under the tub. The factories ( bottoms contact points are never enough for a real solid tub bottom.

    STRUCTO-LITE Basecoat - USG Corporation
    Thanks for the reply, but I thought our bathroom was 60intches, but it is actually 61.5. Im installing a new tub in a remodel. I know it need to go against the furring strips but my bathroom is to wide and I'm blending into the current 3/4 sheetrock (one 1/2 one 1/4). And you I haven't set the tub yet but I will use plaster of pairs. The manufacture recommended plaster of paris and my firend who is a contractor said that would be fine.
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #4

    Jun 24, 2009, 11:01 PM

    Things should work out here for furring strips on both sides. 60" and divide the 1 1/2 " to a furring strip on both ends..

    When you use the brown coat just set the tub and level it and don't nail the flanges until the next day.
    Ineedhelpplumbi's Avatar
    Ineedhelpplumbi Posts: 21, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Jun 24, 2009, 11:04 PM

    What I'm doing is trying to tie into the rest of the Sheetrock in the bathroom. So at this point are you pretty much saying that I will have to tear out all the other walls. Also you keep saying brown coat, do you not recommend the plaster of paris?
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #6

    Jun 25, 2009, 09:17 AM

    The exact product I posted is what to use here. Its actually a base coating for a plaster wall, just like in the old days. Strutcolite is a light weight material and hardens like concrete and sticks to wood and most all materials. Be careful not close in the tub drain area with it in case you need future access to those areas for service work.

    If you walls are 61" 1/2 inches then you need to build in not really tear out. How ever you will more then likely need to adjust for the tub drainage and the plumbing supplies. So some or all could be torn out just to inspect the supplies etc.

    But its very possible to use 3/4 furring strips to nails through existing walls studs and drywall/plaster there and build in.

    I know I'm throwing it both ways here. Personally I would tear out for the basic reasons to inspect the wall cavities for the proper insulation and the most important vapor barrier in the ceiling.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Finishing a Bar Top [ 3 Answers ]

I am trying to finish up the top of my wet bar with stain and polyurethane. All finished with the staining and have applied 6 coats of the poly. Are there any tricks techniques to get that final smooth brushless finish?

Finishing a Basement [ 5 Answers ]

Approximately how much will it cost to finish a basement on our own, with an added 1/2 bathroom, laundry room (not counting the appliances), a small wine celler, and a living area? I realize that a lot will depend on the quality of products that we use, but I was just wondering an average range. ...

Basement finishing [ 3 Answers ]

I'm looking to finish my basement which has no leaks coming from the walls. My question is before I start framing is there anything I should do to the walls like some kind of vapor barrier or something,or can I just start framing it out.

Basement Finishing [ 1 Answers ]

I'm starting to finish a basement that is 15' high. Where the bathroom is at will only be framed 8' with a sheetrock ceiling and a plywood floor above that for storage. My question is will the walls of this bathroom be considered load bearing? And can I get away with 2x6 joists spaced 16" above?...

Finishing [ 1 Answers ]

Should I use waterbase or Oil paint to finish white pine?


View more questions Search