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tableclocks · Apr 24, 2009, 12:24 PM

Hi all 2001 impala 86000 miles 3.4 v-6... car runs v good... last 2 weeks... 2 times a week apart we had a no start... good spark... sounded like it was getting fuel but just did not hook up... the car is run every day 30 miles or more... always runs good... but no start 2 times in 2 weeks... after it sat for 30 minuets or so it started and ran fine... no codes show up... engine lite is not on... I hope its a tipical synpton of something easiely fixed... thank you
Richard

TxGreaseMonkey · Apr 24, 2009, 12:43 PM

Replace the platinum plugs (ACDelco only), if they have not been replaced in the last 40,000 miles.

If the problem persists, focus on the coil packs and, possibly, the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

tableclocks · Apr 26, 2009, 09:43 AM

Tks for your answer... how do I get to the plugs on my car? 3.4... impala 2001... the back plugs... plugs I don't think are the cause but they are 86000 miles old... so I got plugs and wires and a fuel filter... anyway to ck the coil or crank sensor? Can they be bad at times ? For a no start situation like 2 times in 50 or so... maybe 2 times in 100... it sounded like it wanted to start but I had to wait about 30 minuets... then it stated OK... if you have more info thank you v much... richard...
... this is about 2 hrs latter... I had to tear the plug boots off... on so tight... used a braker bar to get the plugs out... but its done... do the fuel filter nx... and go from there... thank you
... richard

TxGreaseMonkey · Apr 26, 2009, 01:05 PM

Lightly coat the porcelein portion of the spark plugs, and main electrode, with dielectric grease. It will help prevent misfires and prevent the boot from sticking.

Did the new plugs help?

Here's how I replace the rear plugs on my 2000 Taurus, V6, 3.0 L Duratec Engine:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1375876

It may give you some ideas.

tableclocks · Apr 30, 2009, 05:47 PM

I won't know for a few weeks till the wife tells me... I took the dog bones of the fromt of the engine and rocked it to the from to get more room in the back... thks for your help... richard

KISS · Apr 30, 2009, 07:14 PM

On a hunch, pull the connector to the MAF sensor. See it it will start in limp mode.

Symptom that I had was it appeared that the engine started, but when you released the ignition the engine stopped.

tableclocks · Apr 30, 2009, 07:21 PM

I don't undersrant... sorry... should I just change the maf sensor?
Tks

KISS · Apr 30, 2009, 07:57 PM

You don't want to replace parts at random. The MAF sensor is on the air intake. If you just disconnect the sensor, it may start. I had a similar problem. I put in a DEFECTIVE MAF sensor. Worked on day 1 and on Day 2 when my mom had the car out, it just died.

I went to her location and the car would appear to start, but when you released the key it would stop cold.

The MAF can be simulated by the ECM. When it is simulated by the ECM there will be driveability problems. Not serious, but nonetheless there.

There is no point in replacing it UNLESS it proves to be defective. If car doesn't start. Unplug MAF. If car starts then MAF is the problem. It's about a $200 part without core.

Besides, it's attached with a tamper-proof torx screw.

I didn't believe it would cause a stall/no start problem either.

this8384 · May 1, 2009, 07:02 AM

When the vehicle won't start, is the motor turning over or not doing anything? Also, you said it sounded like the car was getting fuel; did you actually do a pressure test on it when the vehicle won't start?

tableclocks · May 1, 2009, 01:43 PM

Thank you all... I ll see in a few weeks what it does