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    nsontag's Avatar
    nsontag Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Apr 28, 2009, 09:44 PM
    Moving Shower Drain: A tricky situation
    I'm in the process of moving my shower drain in my basement. I have lifted my cement slab to expose the (lead) drain pipe.

    After the p-trap, the shower drain connects to a junction. My problem is this: in order to move the drain to the spot where I need it, I am going to have to

    1) move the junction further down the drain line or
    2) put a 90+ degree bend in the drain line.

    The junction is also lead, and it is located half way under a wall (and more basement slab) so it would be exceedingly difficult/laborious to remove and replace at a different spot in the drain line.

    So my question is this: is there any way I can get away with having a 90 degree bend after the p-trap in the shower drain or will I have to bite the bullet and move the junction?

    Also, is there a proper procedure for cutting lead pipe so I can couple it to PVC pipe, or do I simply go at it with a hack saw?

    Thanks!

    Nolan
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Apr 29, 2009, 07:16 AM

    No 90s should be used in this drain. Bite the bullet and do the job right.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    Apr 29, 2009, 08:55 AM
    Hi all:

    Nolan, like Ballenger said, no 90s after the trap... changes the PTRAP to an strap of sorts... not good for lots of reasons!

    You will need to cut the lead pipe with a sawzall or hacksaw with metal blade(s) and then use a SHIELDED CLAMP to make the transition from lead to PVC... see picture. These clamps are available at most home supply stores or if necessary pick one up at a local plumbing supply store. Do NOT use the unshielded all rubber (or neoprene) clamps with 2 SS bands... they will not work well here.

    If possible, you will want to cut at the brass ferrule where the lead joins the cast iron... IF POSSIBLE! This will be a much stronger connection than just connecting to the lead... see picture.

    Bring a piece of the old lead pipe with you to check best fit at the store. A new shower will require 2" PVC ptrap and pipe. You can increase from the lead pipe size to 2" using the clamp or using 2"x1.5" PVC bushings or couplings.

    Good luck!

    MARK
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    nsontag's Avatar
    nsontag Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    Apr 30, 2009, 05:23 PM

    So I have since determined that these pipes are Cast iron, not lead. Does this mean I can use the neoprene coupling, or should I still be looking for a shielded coupling?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #5

    Apr 30, 2009, 07:03 PM
    To transition from cast iron pipe to PVC you will purchase the shielded clamp... see picture#1 and #2 below.

    DO NOT
    purchase the non-shielded clamps... see last picture. These are primarily intended for underground plumbing work.

    Let us know if you have more questions... glad to help!

    MARK
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