[michaelobowers]

I installed a after market head unit with a DVD player above it and a over head monitor in my 2002 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder sedan. It worked perfectly, until I noticed that same day, the head unit was sticking out about a tenth of an inch from the stereo kit. So I pushed the head unit in. Then the clicking sound behind the glove box began. After a few seconds it went away.

Symptoms:
1. Car will not start, when I turn the key to position 2 clicking sound from behind glove
Compartment. Then it goes away after a minute but still will not start.
a. No mileage display.
2. Power windows will not work.
3. Alarm gives a quick flash with external lights when arming car.

Note: -Everything I installed was taken out, wires and all.
-All fuses on both panels and under hood are good using a volt/ohm meter.
-Glove box taken out.
-Sound is coming from behind fuses on the passenger side.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Remove and fully charge the battery. Sometimes, relays will "chatter" when the battery is deeply discharged.

[michaelobowers]

The battery is reading 12.48 Volts on my multimeter. Should I still take the battery out and charge it?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I would, since its amperage is still in doubt. Many auto parts stores will charge batteries for free. Always begin automotive electrical troubleshooting by testing all underhood and underdash fuses, with a test light or multimeter, and ensuring the battery is fully charged.

[michaelobowers]

- I pulled out every fuse in the car and under the hood, one at a time. Visually inspected each one. Then put it back in. All fuses were good.
- Visually inspected all wiring behind the radio, which is not installed. And wring underneath passenger side dash, again. Still could not find no problems.
I'm thinking I may have burn the main computer some how.
My head unit, DVD Player and monitor still work properly, But are not in the car at this time.
Tried to start the car, same problems.
Why won't my stinking car start?

[michaelobowers]

Wow, you get back quick.
I will take the battery down to Auto zone to get it charged.
Thanks for the advice.
Let you know if it works.
God Speed...

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. You never want to test fuses the way you did. First, you run the risk of unknowingly replacing them in the wrong slot and really goofing things up. Second, you are not testing for power through the fuse. Fuses can corrode and prevent current from flowing. You won't know this by visually inspecting them. In this case, remove and clean the contacts with steel wool or abrasive cloth. Here's how to properly test fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

I recommend that you retest each underhood and underdash fuse with a test light or multimeter. Be thorough because it can save a lot of time and money.

. Does the Check Engine Light come on and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? If it does, the ECM is likely fine.

. Be sure to clean the battery terminals and cable connections.

[michaelobowers]

Thanks Bro, for the advice. I charged the battery.
The Car now starts!! AMAZING!
Praise the Lord... Ive been redeemed.
Now, to put everything back together...
Again thanks for all your help...

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I'm glad--I know the feeling of relief, when your only car starts again.