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    jmblood's Avatar
    jmblood Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Feb 19, 2009, 08:18 PM
    Engine light stays on and Engine stops at any time.
    Had the engine light checked out by several mechanics can't find out why it stays on all the time. Plus the engine will stops running when I come to a stop. Other times I will park and go in to a store and come out and it won't start but will wait a few minutes and it will start up again. It is a one owner will cared for with extremely low mileage. Have changed a few items like new gas & air filters, battery, changed spark plugs, timing. Nobody seems to know what is wrong.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Feb 19, 2009, 08:24 PM

    Since you didn't even tell us what kind of car you have, it's difficult to say. Also, provide year, engine, mileage, and the exact codes read.
    jmblood's Avatar
    jmblood Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Feb 19, 2009, 08:57 PM
    Sorry about that. 1988 CRX
    maxpinck1's Avatar
    maxpinck1 Posts: 28, Reputation: 3
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    #4

    Feb 20, 2009, 06:37 PM

    Can your mechanics check the fuel system, fuel pump, filter, delivery and for possible restrictions. It sounds like when that fuel pump gets hot, it need to cool off before it starts back delivering
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #5

    Feb 20, 2009, 07:20 PM

    When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the underdash fuse box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

    The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

    Sounds like your ECM is in the process of failing.
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