[civicDX300K]

I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX with just about 300K. A few weeks ago my car didn't want to start and when it finally did it would not stay running. Finally, when I finally got it started the check engine light was on and it was idoling high and then would drop down very low and start to stall, the battery & oil light would come on when this occurred, and then it would catch itself and start idoling fine. I drove it around to test it out and when coming to a stop and pressing the brake the car would drop idol and start to stall, again battery and oil light came on. I took it to get the codes read and they said misfires in 2 cylinders so I changed out the plugs with new ones, erased the codes, and still same issue. I now put it into neutral and give it some gas while stopping to keep her running but when I do that the check engine light sometimes blinks off and on for about 15-20 seconds. Anyone have any ideas? I do my routine maintenance on the car as needed and have been using synthetic oil for ten years in it. Never had any real problems. Changed the plugs, wires, cap & rotor within a reasonable amount of time, fuel filter is slightly over 30K miles, fresh oil within 2 weeks of this situation and like I said I changed the plugs again just to be sure of myself when the check engine light came on with a misfire.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

[civicDX300K]

So, you definitely do not think it is the IACV? Do you think it is combination of both the ICM & Coil or maybe just one? Earlier I did not add that the engine shakes violently when it is at low idol and about to stall.

[civicDX300K]

You don't think it is PCV, Timing, Alternator, or because the car sounds like a sewing machine. See I am a common sense DIY mechanic. Type to check where the noise is coming from and learn from previous issues type "mechanic." And I was thinking... the pistons go up and when applying the gas they are at a high RPM which would cause them to move normally and the car to sound and drive like the dream it always has. Then when I stop, my college education makes me think, friction takes over and the piston can no longer move freely and that is why it stalls. Kind of like when you were a kid and jammed sticks through the spokes on the bicycle... But I have read up on some of your threads and you seem pretty knowledgeable so I wanted to pick your brain some more. I appreciate your response and hope you can provide me with some more feedback on how positive you are.

[holly_penyo]

I may be wrong, I don't know much about cars, but my 2002 ford focus did the same thing, it would die when it came to a stop, and the only way to keep it running was to put it in neutral and rev the engine. It turned out to be some hose that was bad... I'm not sure which one though.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

ICMs and coils are the two most problematic components in this generation of Honda. They really should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Over time, they breakdown and cause misfires and erratic engine performance. Simple to diagnosis and fix, in my opinion.

[civicDX300K]

Okay, today I replaced the ICM (ignitor) & Coil. Tested the car and it still stalled when coming to a stop. I also took off the IACV and cleaned it with carb cleaner although it did not look that dirty. I am on my way now to change the fuel filter. If this does not work, any more ideas?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Fully charge the battery.

. Test the alternator.

. Check idle speed--ensure cable did not pop out of its bracket (in front of the master cylinder reservoir).

If the problem persists, consider replacing the distributor housing (genuine Honda only). Internal sensors (CKP, CYL, and TDC) may be damaged, which are not serviceable.

[Lady1964]

My 97 does exactly the same thing! With the oil and battery light. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?