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steevesla · Oct 23, 2008, 09:08 AM

Hi, just tore up a leaking second floor toilet (house was built in 1958). Everything rusted and floor damage noted. I understand that I have to replace area of rot. The existing toilet plumbing is some sort of material that is shapable, grey/tan in color and was obviously leaking terribly. The previous owner had attempted to repair it and made a whole flange out of plumbers putty and caulking. My problem is that it has no visible way to attach any further flange or pipes except shaping it to round and clamping some sort of pipe on. It seems to be roughly 4" in diameter.
What is this plumbing material and how best do I attach pipe/flange to it?? What is my best attack.

speedball1 · Oct 23, 2008, 09:46 AM

Hi Steve,

The existing toilet plumbing is some sort of material that is shapable, grey/tan in color and was obviously leaking terribly

You're describing a lead closet raiser. When we used lead to pick up a toilet we made a seal made of plumbers putty and we secured the toilet to the floor with wood screw closet bolts instead of a flange. Do you have enough stock left on the lead pipe to form a flare around the hole? Let me know, Tom

steevesla · Oct 23, 2008, 11:46 AM

Yes I believe I do. Though it might be below the level of the floor a bit.

speedball1 · Oct 23, 2008, 12:32 PM

The flare has to be above and on the floor level. If that won't work the job just got harder. Is there enough stock to do this? Tom

steevesla · Oct 23, 2008, 03:03 PM

No, the flare is definitely sitting below the level of the floor.

speedball1 · Oct 23, 2008, 03:51 PM

Then we have a problem. Describe the fitting the lead pipe is connected to. How easy is it to get to? Cheers, Tom

steevesla · Oct 23, 2008, 07:26 PM

Well, I went right down and looked at the fitting. It is certainly visibile and somewhat reachable- If I remove some duct work- very reachable. Pardon the lack of 'plumbing terminology" but if I trace the pipe from the flangeless pipe in the floor to the next joint it attaches to what looks like "y" shaped iron(?) plumbing. The joint is visible for sure. I am wondering how big a space someone needs to get in there to cut and attach a new piping.
And could I do this myself??

Milo Dolezal · Oct 23, 2008, 11:02 PM

I see in your 1st photo Flex Seal coupling ( black rubber flexible coupling with 2 s.s. bands ). Do this:

1. Remove the leaded pipe where it connects to Cast Iron
2. Install new Flex Seal coupling over the Cast Iron Hub ( measure size of the hub and purchase appropriate size. I am not sure of the exact size of the hub, but I think is around 6". The other end of the Flex Seal coupling should be 4". Therefore, you get: 4" Clay x 4" ABS Flex Seal coupling... )
3. Get short piece of 4" ABS pipe, 1-4" ABS 90 and 1 - 4"ABS closet ring
4. Replace the leaded section of pipe with ABS: install short piece of pipe into the other end of Flex Seal coupling, Glue on it 4" ABS 90 pointing upwards and being flush with the finished floor.
5. DO YOUR SUB-FLOOR REPAIR NOW
6. When sub-floor in, glue ABS closet ring of the 4" ABS Pipe
7. Proceed with setting toilet

steevesla · Oct 24, 2008, 03:39 AM

THANK YOU!!
Sounds easy enough. So, how hard is it to disconnect at the cast iron joint? Any special machinery needed?? Is it a souldered joint? Or just good old fashioned elbow grease?

Milo Dolezal · Oct 24, 2008, 06:07 AM

Yes, it is quite a job to cut through Cast Iron pipe. We use either sawzall with special blade, 4" diamond blade in grinder, or chain cutter - a special tool made 100 year ago just for this purpose.

However, if you follow my instructions, you will be able to avoid cutting C.I. pipe. You will be removing leaded pipe which is easy: you cut it with hack-saw.

steevesla · Oct 24, 2008, 01:33 PM

Thank you so much for the guidance!! This is an amazing forum.

May I just clarify one detail?
Am I to cut with the saw AT the junction of the lead pipe and join the pvc to the cast iron directly. Or do I leave some of the lead pipe and join the pvc to the lead which is already attached to the cast iron??
And if I am to remove the lead pipe at the junction of the cast iron- is it possible to remove the lead pipe that is sitting in the actual joint or even necessary??

Thanks again you are a wonderful resource!

Laura

Milo Dolezal · Oct 24, 2008, 01:45 PM

Laura, I would suggest to remove the lead pipe completely from the Cast Iron hub. If possible, scoop out / chisels out the old lead as well.

I would not attach to lead pipe. It is soft material that will deform when tightening the s.s. bend from Flex Seal coupling.

Your most important task will be the purchase of the correct size Flex Seal coupling.

steevesla · Nov 1, 2008, 05:36 AM

Thank you sooooo much Milo!
The Sawzall was like cutting through butter!!
Cheers!