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fixmyhouse · Sep 14, 2008, 09:22 AM

I own a 40 year old contemporary home in Massachusetts. Approximately 2 year ago I had the roof replaced. Two layers of shingles were removed and replaced with architectural asphalt/fiberglass shiingles. The roofer installed ice/water guard at the eves and possible elsewhere. I was not on-site when it was done so I don't know for sure if he installed more than one width at the eves or if he installed it on the ridge.

About 9 months after installation, during the first summer, I had drips of water from an exposed ridge beam in my master bath. It only occurred on a warm, sunny day following rain. About 1 year afer installation I noticed pealing paint on the living room ceiling just below the exposed ridge beam and on the north face of the roof. About 21 months after installation, the second summer, I noticed mildew on the sheetrock ceiling in the master bath just below the ridge beam, primarily on the north face.

The contractor, who subcontracted the roof, has looked at the problem and consulted with a new roofer (the old one is out of touch). They have suggested a ridge vent for both areas. My father, a retired builder, is very concerned that the problem is the ice/water guard and that a ridge vent may provide some immediate, temporary solution to the problems, but untimately my underlayment with rot. He feels all the ice/water guard needs to be removed and replaced with felt, which of course means replacing the whole roof.

Can you provide any insight or advide? What is the recommended installation of ice guard - only at the eves? Will a ridge vent solve the problem? Should I tighten up the seal between the exposed beams and sheetrock to prevent humidity from the interor entering the roof space?

Thanks you.

ballengerb1 · Sep 15, 2008, 07:56 AM

Does dad explain why he thinks "He feels all the ice/water guard needs to be removed and replaced with felt" would cure the problems? It appears you have excessive condensation and increasing vetilation would be the route to take. I'd also look at ways to lower the humidity inisde the house like AC or bathroom exhaust fans.

fixmyhouse · Sep 16, 2008, 03:32 PM

My father agrees that reducing humidity in the house is needed. He believes that the vapor in the house will move up through the sheetrock, insulation, and sheathing, hit the vapor barrier and condense. Then it will move back into the sheathing and rot it, eventually rotting the rafters as well. The drips from the beam, pealing paint, and mildew all seem to be signs of moisture trapped in the rafter space.

I spoke with a roofing person at Lowe's and he felt the ridge vent should do the job, but I'm concerned that I may not have channel vents. I won't know until the roof is cut open for the vent. I do have soffit vents.

Thanks.

ballengerb1 · Sep 16, 2008, 04:07 PM

Soffit vents let air enter the attic, where is it supposed to exit?

hkstroud · Sep 17, 2008, 07:52 AM

If I understand your post correctly, this only occurs after a rain and only in the bath and only along the exposed ridge beam. I am assuming also that the house is being cooled by the A/C when this occurs. This might seem a little far out, but do any A/C ducts, either in the bath or elsewhere, blow directly on or very close to the exposed ridge beam?

fixmyhouse · Sep 17, 2008, 04:34 PM

Soffit vents: there was never a ridge vent, so I don't really know how the air escaped. Through the plywood and shingles I guess. The are a little pourous. I'm hoping a ridge vent will do the trick.

Air conditioner: I wish I had air conditioning, but don't. The house was not being cooled during the condensation.