[massplumber2008]

You will need to use as few fittings as possible. 45s are best, but if need 90s use them.

Iron in the walls would just make this more fun for you... :) LOL...

MARK

[mechanickid]

Well there is iron in the attic,, it's a tight space also there is problay only maybe a ft... before it goes into the roof... it flares out and gets biger for most of this also...

[mechanickid]

And I would have to cut across the atic as well... what if I just run this up into my own atic vent?

[massplumber2008]

Can always cut this and penetrate the roof separate of other vents.

They make a KOZY KOLLAR vent kit that allows you to punch through the roof and install the roof flange WITHOUT GOING OUT ON THE ROOF... SEE PICTURE BELOW.

[mechanickid]

How do you recommend I line this all up for drilling... I mean from the basement to the attic?

[massplumber2008]

Not sure I understood..?

I'm thinking shortest route using closets if necessary.. let me know.

[mechanickid]

... lol I meant to line up each hole but I thought of a way... I meen from the floor to the ceeling and through to the other floor and then ceeling again... each hole

[massplumber2008]

Can always use a PILOT DRILL BIT (about 18" long) if needed... sold at home depot.

[mechanickid]

Hey mark,

I will talk to you later just letting you know in case you check this first, I called the shop and the guy didn't know what kind he carried. He said what do you mean?? As if he didn't understand the question... so no help there, he says to me PEX is just a name. He did tell me the type of connectors they cary but I doubt that means anything because you can use different connectors for different types.

Also they don't rent the tools and they cost about $140, I checked rental places around here too,, no one

Let me know what you think,

[mechanickid]

Found out,, called the other location he said BOW?? Its not even listed on the page you gave me to check.

Homedepot caries PEX,, but I don't see the tools on the webpage, I say this because I could buy and return from these places. Haha
Homedepot and Lowe's both cary Zurn

This is what Lowe's has on the webpage... could I use these?



But I have to go to this plumbing store because I bought that 30 dollar steel bushing, and they have a 15% restocking fee in 5 days (25% after until ten days, then no return) plus a handling charge, so he says well figure out what your going to get and come back here and I'll give you the 15% still and waive the handling charge

Im at school right now so I'll check back in a few

[massplumber2008]

1st guy must be a dunce 'cause as you already know there is viega, zurn, wirsbro, etc. Some people just like to make things tougher for people... *shrug*.

Zurn pex is good, reputable system...

You aren't planning on running pex just for the toilet pipe.. are you?

Talk later...

[mechanickid]

Well I was going to... just because I will be looking at another 30 dollars or more in copper,, I could cut costs in half...

What do you think?

I will post a picture of the current copper I have up here... just in case its wrong.. I don't think it is, I may have done something you shouldn't I'm not sure...

[mechanickid]

I did some reserch,,

Bow is here

They have a 25yr warranty they can't be that bad?

and here is some more information

I came across this website saying that Bow and Vanguard are the same (pex-b) some grading system someone made,,

The plumbing sore sells in 20' length or 100' rolls

Talk to you soon

[massplumber2008]

Hi Brian...

If you want to try this system out I don'tsee why you couldn't.

Usually, however, I wouldn't recommend investing the time running down the tools and/or purchasing the tools and learning the entire system.. especially where something could go wrong based on the idea that you have never used this system... all for just one 15 foot run of cold water over to toilet.

Fact is that you will need to cut into the cold water copper pipe to install a copper tee fitting and then install a transition adapter and tubing and sweat all that up... why not just finish in copper and be done with it?

UP to you... I mean , if you want to for fun..then go for it! You deserve some fun after all the hard work!

Let me know...

[mechanickid]

I would like to learn for the next project I do, but I guess I'll just have to settle for the copper, more simple.

so my shower drain moved maybe a 1/4" in each direction but its plumb still, should I just put some filler strips behind the shower base?

I'm just waiting for the floor to dry some... then I'll do the shwer base... problay tomorrow,

question,, When you set up the rough shower valve... How do you measure to see if you have the right depth... I just measured the difference from the back of the 2x4 brace I put behind it.

[massplumber2008]

Hi Brian:

If you put filler strips behind the shower then you will also have to build out the rest of the left wall and the wall on the right so that when you sheetrock the sheetrock will cover the flange of the shower without bowing outwards.

In fact, I will fir out my walls sometimes just depending on how thick the nailing flange around the shower is... I don't like a bow... and my customers wouldn't either.

After you dry fit all this and slide donut down over pipe (without cutting it) check to see if you can just push the unit back into proper placement... a 1/4" is usually OK to force the unit back and still maintain a good seal at the pipe... let me know.

The shower valve should have a mark on the rough in plate or the rough in plate itself should be flush with the finish wall of the shower... read the instructions provided with shower... or give me a name on the valve and I can tell better... just be sure to include the additional depth required by firring out the 1/4" from behind the unit if you end up doing that.

Keep 'em coming...

[mechanickid]

HEY Mark,

So this is what I will do, I will see if I can't get this to line up good by itself. My walls are going to be drywall and then I got some GP Tileboard, it's a waterproof pannel 1/8th" thick so overall im looking about 5/8ths" thickness. In the directions of the shower they don't make it clear about the walls, if they come down over the side of the base, and the walls behind don't cover the side of the base... then what about that gap? What goes there is there just a gap?

also what about the 8x8 hole am I going to be putting grout in this hole?

My shower valve is Moen, the instructions are so vauge,, there aren't even any words just pictures... haha

Thanks Mark

[mechanickid]

Also... I alllmost forgot,

The vent pipe is kind of worrying me, The closest route I will be able to take is going to require a horizontal run of about 15-20ft, and even then I'm not sure if these two closets line up,, if they do, it will be great but that initial run is that a problem?

I traced the iron and that just happens to run right through the perimenter wall right at the point that another wall intersects, and its iron :)

[massplumber2008]

Glad to help...

The moen shower valve has a black or white plastic cover plate that comes with it... this is the rough in plate. Install it onto the valve (if not already on the valve) and make sure that this cover plate is FLUSH with the finished shower wall.. see pictures below.

I fill the gap you are talking about with something that won't wick water... like a premixed thinset or premixed mastic... just trowel into this space, let dry overnight and then apply the panels as instructed. This will prevent panels from curling in or getting pushed in.. so important step.

The 8"x8" hole will be filled with the substrate you will be setting the base in... I use a structloite perlited gypsum (sold at home depot in my area)... can also use a premixed thinset mortar here, too... just be sure not to put so much that it comes squeezing up and out of the drain hole which will present difficulty when setting donut... this is a fine line and I will go into more detail at my next post. Look for it tonight sometime.

I hope that is what you were talking about... ;)

I'm off to work... talk soon.

[massplumber2008]

Use that pilot drill bit I mentioned and check how things line up. Pilot drill bit is 12 to 18" long and only costs 10 bucks...