[shay franks]

Q: OK I just moved into a new home and it has a 12' fireplace in the living room. It has two brick columns running on either side all the way up with brick in between, and its all painted. What I am wanting to do is cover the upper 2/3 of the wall with sheetrock and make it the same depth all the way across, so you don't see the columns. The lower 1/3 I was going to put wood on the two columns and some sort of tile between them around the fireplace face. I have seen some done this way and have been told to put 1x's in first so I can put the sheetrock and everything to. But my question is how do I attach the 1x's to the painted brick, is this the best way to go.. and does anyone have any other ideas.
all help is greatly appreciated!

[hkstroud]

Construction adhesive and cut nails or a power hammer.

[shay franks]

HERE IS A PDF OF WHAT I HAD IN MIND. If anyone has any advice on how to do this or if my idea is not a good idea. Or just a better idea please let me know thanks for the help
By the way what are cut nails?fireplace-Model.pdf

[hkstroud]

Please use this sites photo posting feature. PDF file cannot be annotated.

click on "Go Advance" below
Click on Manage Attachments
Browse for pic, click open.
Click on upload.

There are size limitations.
Use Paint if necessary to resize.
JPEG best format.

Build 2x4 frame and secure with cut nails. Turn furring strips horizontal. Use construction adhesive and nail with 1 1/2 cut nails. Depending on length you may be able to put only one nail . Don't nail closer than 6" to edge of brick. A regular nail has a sharp point. As you drive it into wood the wood fibers spread and then grip around the nail shank. Brick has no fibers. A sharp point would push granulars apart and break brick. A cut nail has no point. It is case hardened and looks like a wedge. The blunt end makes a hole and the tapered sides push against the sides. It amounts to driving a wedge into a hole. They don't have that much griping power. They will work very well for the 2x4 framing because it can not be pulled straight out. The construction adhesive will keep the furring strips from being pulled straight out and the cut nails will keep them from moving laterally.

Use heavy hammer to drive. The fewer blows to sink the better.

[shay franks]

Thanks Harold you have been a great help. I appreciate your time.

[hkstroud]

Better idea. Make 2x4 framing flush with brick. Run firring strips across brick and 2x4 frame. Nail to 2x4 frame and one cut nail in each end of firring strip into brick. IGives you more to nail into.

[shay franks]

What about using tapcons for the furring strips and liquid nails could I run them verticle then. Reason being I would like to keep the 2x4's against sheetrock so if I ever wanted to mount a TV. Also I think I might turn the 2x4s so the wide face is facing out so id have a larger face to mount to if I ever do.
what are your thoughts?

[hkstroud]

OK, but use 1x4 for furring strips so you are not so close to the edge of the brick. No, to turning 2x4 to flat side. They bow too much that way.

If you think you will be installing a TV later run you electric and TV cable now. You could turn 2x4 flat and cover entire upper portion with 3/4 ply, then drywall to insure that you can mount TV where you want. Loop wires and tape to wall so you can have them where you want them no matter where the box ends up being.

[shay franks]

OK that sounds good. Ill try and post some pictures as the project goes along

[hkstroud]

I'll be waiting.