Originally Posted by indoctrin8ed
Let's assume I begin working on something in my home that was at or above code when it was installed, but I need to make some changes or upgrades.
Answer: Let's also assume the house was built in the 1940's to that code then. I could see where many upgrades would be needed now. That era house was up to code then when K&T was the norm and it is still grandfathered by code now...until...you need to upgrade a circuit. As per example, additional outlets are needed in the remod of, lets say, a livingroom, bedroom addition. Any associated circuits being extended (added to) into the new construction require having grounding upgrading. Any gutted open wall routing requires that the K&T or non-grounding cable be torn out and replaced. That is NEC and most jurisdictions adopt the NEC rules.
In the simple instance, old outlets being modified to 3 prong, are allowed as long as there is a ground in that outlet. If not, then a GFCI replacement is needed in each outlet being changed over. If the bedroom wiring is being updated, then that whole room circuit needs to be changed over to an AFCI protected circuit. Only AFCI panel breakers are on the market now and need a grounding circuit from the panel to the bedroom(s), even to the smoke detectors in the bedroom. I hope you see why I answered initially the way I did.
For example, let's say that what used to require 14 gauge wire now requires 12 gauge wire. If I decide to work on this circuit, do I need to upgrade all the wire in this circuit to meet new code requirements? Would that include anything that's spliced in to this circuit?Arguably, this might require upgrading all electrical in the house since it's all interconnected to some extent.
Answer: Unbelievable as it may seem, codes going back 50 years have not changed the requirements for wire guage sizing required for each branch circuit conductor size for the loads being served. General circuits are still 14awg, kitchen small appliances are still 12 awg as is the clothes washer, and bathroom receptacles that need to be on a GFCI now...and so on. Hot water heater has changed from 12-2 to 10-2 and cl dryer is 10-3 all with grounds now. Cooking appliances 8 to 6 awg and baseboard heaters 10 awg allow smaller taps.
None of the house branch circuits are interconnected throughout the house. They all require their own hot conductor and neutral of each parallel outlet string. The equipment grounding conductor (EGC) is the only common connected conductor (bare) in the house.
What are the rules for doing partial upgrades?
Answer: pretty much covered above without noting NEC section references. Does this help E?
How does an inspector view this in the future?
Answer: A good electrical AHJ will scope out wiring. Telling an inspector that the wiring was that way when you bought the house can be disputed from comparing the dated material installed. A dated inspection sticker on the panel verifies approved upgrade that is used for a future home resale value point.
I've had electricians offer to do work without pulling permits, or with the option of pulling a permit for substantial work. Is this unethical?
Answer: Licensed pulling permit is ethical, but it is unfair to the whole electrical trade by an installer working under the counter for the clients. More often than not, non code practices of installations are done that is not qualified without professional inspection. As an example, I would not be able to install electrical to code in Florida because I am not familiar to that areas practiced adopted code. Mistakes will happen that need professional verification for correction.
Many thanks,
E
