On Friday, my husband was on his way home from work when his car started stalling out while he was driving. After sitting for a few moments it will start right back up and you can drive or a little bit and then it stalls out again.

Any ideas on what this is?

Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil should solve the problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Is this an easy fix or will it be expensive?

You should be able to buy the parts at AutoZone and do the work yourself--just follow my directions and take your time. For the 1.5 liter engine, the ICM (JA179) costs $69.99 and the coil (C957) costs $56.99. The job should take about 45 minutes. Be sure the apply the heat transfer compound, which often comes with the ICM, to the back of the control module.

Now its stalling and losing all the power. He loses the lights and everything

Additional Tests:

. Remove and fully charge the battery. Most auto parts stores will test and charge batteries for free. It's always good, when you have electrical problems, to start with the basics.

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

If the dash lights don't light up, it's usually an indication the ignition switch is bad. Power from the battery flows through the ignition switch and then to the under dash fuse box, which provides power to lights and other systems. If the switch is bad, power is cut-off to many systems.

. Check the charging system:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1973613

Real chaotic electrical system problems are often caused by a failing alternator. Most auto parts stores will also check alternators for free.

. Perform the tests below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

Sudden death situations on these cars is usually related to a failing Ignition Control Module, coil, ignition switch, main relay, or ECM (computer).

So we ended up taking the car to the shop and they say it is the Pickup coil on the distributor. Is this something we can fix on our own?

Absolutely.

Do you have directions on how to do this? I am hoping we can just do it ourselves as we already owe the shop $60 for diagnosing it and its going to be $265 for parts and labor... not bad but if we can get the part cheaper then that and do it ourselves...

Sorry, I don't. What I would do, however, is install a new genuine Honda distributor housing, since Honda distributors tend to last only 50,000 to 100,000 miles anyway. If you just replace the pickup coil the bearings may go next. They are notorious for bearing failure, besides ICM, coil, and sensor failures. Just install the ICM and coil, which you recently purchased, in the new housing. Then, you should be set and have the performance and reliability you need. Your experience is very common on these cars. This link should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

You can save money by buying the housing online. I frequently use this outfit:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=215070

Give them a call, if you want. Make sure you tell them you don't need a complete distributor, since you have a new ICM and coil. Regardless of which direction you go, be sure to install and new distributor cap and rotor. Increased resistance in these items often causes the ICM, coil, and pickup sensors to fail, as high secondary voltage finds the shortest pathway to ground and the voltage turns on inside distributor components.

Spoke with a parts store and they confirmed that the pickup coil is the same as the ICM on this vehicle.

Didn't you install a new ICM and coil after my original advice? I thought your later comment meant that replacing the ICM and coil didn't solve the problem.

You can follow the original directions I provided to just install the ICM yourself.

I'm sorry I didn't realize I made it sound like that. We did not replace the ICM. I have printed the directions and we are going to do that. It doesn't appear to be that hard to do and is way cheaper then having them fix it

Be sure to use a quality screwdriver, so you don't bugger-up the screws on the ICM. Also, be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable, before beginning work.

ICMs are not Hall effect pickup coils--the technology is totally different, even though they both determine when to open and close the current going to the coil. Nobody I have ever heard refers to ICMs as pickup coils.