I ripped out my old acrylic shower base and planned to replace it with a new tileable shower base. The problem is once I removed the shower base, I found that the drain pipe was copper not PVC (I should have known, house was built in the 60's). I have not been able to find a brass drain for a tileable shower base. I am a novice in the world of DIY (I probably should not have taken on such an ambitious project) but I've already purchased the shower base so I have to figure how to make it work. I don't know what my next step should be – any insight would be appreciated. The copper pipe sits about 1-1/2” above the floor, which is making the butt up to the top of the pipe?
Camille

Hi Camille...

Tell us the name of the "tileable" shower base you have, OK? Also, tell me if you have access to the copper pipe from below or are you on a concrete slab? I'd also like to know how you are planning to set the shower base... are you planning to set it into a mortar bed or what does the manufacturer require?

Answer my questions and I'll be able to help you complete the project, OK... ;)

Mark

Hi Mark,
Thank you so much.I have the KBRS (Showerbase.com)tileable shower base. I am on a concrete slab but there is a 12"x12" square cut out in the center where the copper pipe about 3" long looks to be welded into another piece of metel that is under ground. The directions for the showerbase say to install the base with thinset & I am supposed to secure the PVC shower drain to the base using silicone. The showerbase will be a snug fit, I'm not really worried about it moving. I really appreciate your help with this.
Camille

You'll need a 2" copper x 2" PVC SHIELDED TRANSITION CLAMP (see image) here, Camille. These can be picked up at almost any home improvement store nowadays, but don't get talked into purchasing the all rubber type of clamp... get the shielded clamp only. You'll also need a small piece of 2" PVC pipe... sold in 2 foot lengths at most home depots.

Then, you'll need to cut that copper pipe about an inch or so above the SOLDERED joint underground. Here, you can't make a mistake or the job will become much harder. You (or a friend) can cut the pipe using an inside pipe cutter with a metal cutting wheel... see image. The metal cutting wheel will need to be purchased separately and attached to the inside pipe cutter. You could also use a DREMEL TOOL with a metal cutting wheel... sold at home depot or Lowe's.

Wear goggles, trace the line to be cut onto the pipe and then cut the line. Once you have a good cut, debur the pipe using a file and then install the shielded clamp to the copper and new PVC pipe.

More questions, just let me know, OK?

Mark

Hi Mark,
Our Home Depot only carries the rubber clamp but I just located the shielded clamp at a plumbing supply store which is about 35 minutes away. Thanks for the pictures I've printed them out to ensure that I get the right clamp. I have a dremel. I'm feeling a lot more comfortable about doing this ALL THANKS TO YOU! I'll keep you posted on my progress. Thank you again
Camille

Hi Mark,
Our Home Depot only carries the rubber clamp but I just located the shielded clamp at a plumbing supply store which is about 35 minutes away. Thanks for the pictures I've printed them out to ensure that I get the right clamp. I have a dremel. I'm feeling a lot more comfortable about doing this ALL THANKS TO YOU! I'll keep you posted on my progress. Thank you again
Camille

Always glad to help! Good luck!

Good Morning,
I just wanted to thank you again for your help. I got the copper and PVC pipe connected - I started with your instructions and cut all but 2 inches off the copper pipe. The shielded clamp was too tall, so I about an inch off the PVC side & I cut the PVC drain neck down. It was still about 2 inches too tall. I went back to home depot and by now the shower drain neck is ruined. The salesperson said that the only solution he had was for me to force the PVC over the copper pipe and seal it. Well I pinched at the copper pipe until the end of the pipe fit into the PVC (dry fitted) then I cleaned the PVC and with PVC glue and silicone around the sides; and again once the original glue had a chance to dry. It does not look pretty but so far there are no visible leaks. I am about do a balloon test in the drain to check for leaking. I've created more problems because in a rush to get the base down I forgot to use a base of thinset to hold the base down -

Hi again...

As a plumber I have to say that this is not a good solution to the problem, but it sounds like it is all done now... *UGH*.

If you decide to rip this up and start over please post back and we will work real closely with you to make sure you have a perfect outcome. If needed, on a very rare occasion, I can even speak to you by telephone so we can start and finish this in a reasonable time frame.

I really do wish you well and if we can help more you just post back!

Thank you for updating me... I appreciate that!

Mark

Hi Mark -

Just wanted to tell you thank you for your detailed info (including pictures) you gave Camille. I had the same problem as she did, only with a copper drain pipe that I needed to transition to an ABS drain. Followed your directions exactly, and it has turned out perfectly cutting the copper back (with the metal dremmel blade) and using the shielded clamp to attach the ABS transition piece to the copper. Then I used ABS glue to connect the new ABS piece to the drain. Thank you again! I searched all over the Internet before I found your post; I was very close to just calling a plumber to do this, but knew it couldn't be that difficult.

Now... onto construction of the shower pan!

Thanks again,
Helen

Hi Helen

Thank you for taking a minute to post over to us... appreciate it!

Mark