Honda prelude 1991 vtec , engine check light goes out after 2 seconds , no spark to plugs

You have a distributor-related problem. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

The distributor housing should be fine, unless you see orange dust or oil inside. If you see either of these, install an OEM housing. Aftermarket ICMs and coils, however, are fine.

EXAMPLE: Diagnosing an Engine That Cranks but Won't Start

Check for spark at the plugs. If none, check for spark at the coil, after removing the distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover. Ground the test light clip and check for spark from the coil, as an assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the coil works, there should be a spark between the spring on the coil and the test light, as the probe is brought in the proximity of the spring. You now have spark at the coil and no spark at the plugs; therefore, replace the rotor and distributor cap, since one or both may be shorting out.

If there's no spark from the coil, check the igniter with the test light. Take a jumper wire, with alligator clips on each end, and ground out the coil spring. Touch the test light probe to the negative terminal on the coil, as your assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the igniter is good, the test light should blink on and off. If the test light does not blink on and off, replace the igniter. Should the coil still not spark, after replacing the igniter, replace the coil.

In real life, everything can check out but the engine can still die on you, once it gets hot and the igniter and/or coil start to break down under load. That's why I'm not a real fan of testing igniters and coils. This diagnostic process may keep you from just throwing parts at the problem—just be aware of its limitations.

I'm not a mechanic but have experience doing basic mechanical assessments and repairs. I have one question which is how you've confirmed that there is no spark going to the spark plugs? If you're 100% sure that there isn't an electrical current (ignition source) to the spark plugs the next determination would be the ignition source in that vehicle. Without looking at the vehicle my guess would be to look at the module/component/device where the spark plug wires start their course/path from the ignition source to the spark plugs themselves. It may be a matter of replacing that device if it's a sealed, unrepairable unit or researching some other options on how to troubleshoot the ignition source if it's something like an old style distributor, (the device that produces electricity to initiate spark in the spark plugs and ignite fuel/air mix).

A more basic issue would be ensuring all the spark plug and plug wires are in good condition and connected/installed properly.

Could anything be redirecting or "robbing" the electricity from the ignition source to somewhere like a ground or elsewhere than the spark plugs?

Anyway there are a few thoughts, hope something easy works out. Cheers